THE DYE SUB COLUMN Mugging up on mug printing
In his second column for Printwear & Promotion, dye sublimation specialist, Justin Mann, has some expert hints and tips for those who are just starting out on their mug printing ventures.
S Finding the right mug
peak to suppliers, some will sell you just a couple of mugs to test, some may even send you a free sample. Hold two mugs together and see how the bottom edge of each mug curves. You're looking to get this curve as small as possible to ensure a full wrap print. You should be able to print very close to the top and bottom of the mug. I prefer a 5mm gap top and bottom as I feel this looks better and frames the image. You won't get right up to the handle so the gaps complement this space very well.
The most common mugs sizes are 10oz and 11oz. The 10oz is often preferred as it's that bit lighter and easier to handle. The coating on the mug can vary. Many will claim dishwasher 'safe' while some will state dishwasher 'proof'. Safe means you'll get away with a few washes but the image may start to deteriorate before too long.
Dishwasher proof means just that. You should be able to constantly put these through a dishwasher and see no deterioration at all over time.
Choosing the right Mug Press Cheaper (often Chinese) presses can be perfectly adequate but build quality won't match the likes of Adkins for example. A cheaper press may set you back just over £100 compared to £500+ for a more recognised brand.
Make sure the press will accommodate the size of mug you want to print. You can always 'pad' out an 11oz mug press to enable 10oz mugs to be pressed using thin silicone sheets as long as you increase the time and temperature a little to compensate for this.
Possible issues Always ensure the transfer paper is tight J About the author
ustin Mannʼs interest in printing started over 20 years ago when he worked in screen printing. He is also experienced in large format and has spent several years running his own sublimation print business. He became increasingly involved in sublimation and heat transfer printing and founded the Dye Sublimation Forum three years ago. The growing community now extends to 1800 members who are all willing to help each other. You can find Justin and the forum at
www.dyesubforum.co.uk
against the mug surface and tape both ends securely.
If you find that the bottom of the print isn't transferring well this could be down to the mug not being straight or the pressure isn't high enough. It could also be because the base of the mug is taking longer to heat. You can pre-heat the bottom of the mug for 30 seconds by placing just the bottom inch or so into the press before attaching the print. Cheaper presses are more likely to
suffer blanket failures sooner so if you start to get a patchy effect on your print this may well be the problem. You can use an infrared thermometer to check for
Picture courtesy of Listawood.
cool spots on the blanket. Ensure that you are using sufficient pressure. The blanket needs to wrap the mug tightly enough so that it curls over the edges of the mug slightly. This should allow for a slight curve on the mug edge. You should still be able to close the press with one hand.
Cooling
Often debated on the Dye Sublimation Forum. Many people allow their mugs to 'air cool', others choose to dunk in room temperature water. Using a fan and/or stone or marble base can aid the cooling process. The basic rule is that you need to cool as quickly as possible to avoid bleeding but you don't want to shock the mug with cold water and cause it to crack. Whichever method you use, I would advise removing the transfer paper as quickly as possible once the mug is removed from the press to avoid any bleeding or ghosting. Test each method to see what works for you. n We welcome all new members regardless of their level of experience at the DSF so please visit us at
www.dyesubforum.co.uk
www.printwearandpromotion.co.uk
March 2013 | 61 |
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