WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 8, 2010
SPIRITS Jason Wilson
After a certain age, some like it hot
Robert Louis Stevenson wrote; the key to inner truth, according to Pliny; and in Ben Franklin’s formulation, constant proof that God loves us and wants to see us happy. It is the liquid expression of the soil where it is grown and the bottled sunshine of the year in which it was harvested, a living time capsule that, once opened, is as fleeting as a lost opportunity. All of which explains why the world needs wine writers: If we ever really succeed in demystifying the stuff, we’ll write ourselves out of a job. Now let me introduce the anti-wine, one that brooks no philosophical discourse or pretense and connotes neither the socioeconomic status nor level of enlightenment of those who drink it. A wine that speaks the simple language of fun, invoking not deep thoughts but only smiles. A wine that, if you must ask what food to pair with it, would
W
ine inspiresmystical description. It is bottled poetry, as
KLMNO
EZ EE
Drinks WINE Dave McIntyre No pretense, just pleasure
inspire most people to answer, “Breakfast!” It isMoscato d’Asti, from Piemonte in northwest Italy. Slightly frizzante, with about one-third the pressure and bubbles of champagne,Moscato d’Asti clocks in at a mere 5.5 percent alcohol, retaining moderate sweetness. It’s a fruit salad in a glass, or a bite of a super-ripe peach. The moscato grape (also
called muscat) has several sub- varieties and is most famously made as a very sweet dessert wine, such asMuscat de Beaumes de Venise from France or the orange muscat stickies from Australia and California. Fermented nearly dry (to about 12 to 13 percent alcohol) in southern Italy, Spain and Alsace, the grape makes a lovely peach- and melon-scented
aperitif.Moscato is also the grape of Asti Spumante, the frothier cousin ofMoscato d’Asti. But don’t let that association turn you off if you remember the cloying bubblies of yesteryear. Moscato d’Asti can bridge the
DEB LINDSEY FOR THE WASHINGTON POST; GLASSWARE FROM CRATE AND BARREL The GingeredRumToddy, left, and the Apple Toddy, time-tested antidotes to chilly weather. I never imagined Iwould own
amug that reads, “Being Forty Is Twice as Sexy as
Twenty.” But nowI do. Itwas given tome last summer by a young friend (who ismuch closer to 20 than 40) formy milestone
birthday.At first I thought, “Ouch!” Then I placed it on the same shelf asmymugs labeled “World’sGreatestDad,” “JournalistsDo It onDeadline” and “IHateMondays” (Garfield the cat). But nowthat theweather has
turned cold, I’mthinking this might be the perfectmug for drinking hot
toddies.Atoddy, after all, is not a youngman’s drink.One does not immediately transition fromthe youthful folly of, say, Four Loko or a raspberry vodka tomature enjoyment of a hot toddy. No, onemust have lived
through enough coldwinter nights to truly understand the sublime pleasures of awarm mugwith, say, an Islay scotch or pot-still Irishwhiskey or cask- strength bourbon, alongwith the hotwater, a little sugar and maybe a twist of lemon peel or perhaps some nutmeg. Inmy advancing age, I’mbeginning to better understand this profoundly simple concoction. According toDavidWondrich
in his cocktail history “Imbibe!,” a toddy “is a simple drink in the sameway a tripod is a simple
device.Remove one leg and it cannot stand, set it up properly and itwill hold theweight of the world.” “Hot toddy” over the years
has become a catch-all for warmed alcoholic drinks. “Formost people, a toddy is
howyour grandmothermade it,” saysDan Searing, bar manager atRoom11 in ColumbiaHeights,who experimentswith several toddy variations on hismenu. The traditional version,
however, refers specifically to a drink of sugar, hotwater and spirit, and it dates to at least the 17th century. “Itwas often cheaper to heat your drink than to heat your house,” Searing says. Fromthe beginning, a toddy involved the local hooch; itmightmean Scotch in Scotland or genever if youwere Dutch, or rumin Colonial America or applejack if you lived inNewJersey. Over the past fewweeks, I’ve
been trying hot toddieswith all sorts of spirits. The first,most
“It was often cheaper to heat your drink than to heat your house.”
Dan Searing Bar manager, Room 11 in Columbia Heights
important tidbit of toddy technique to learn is this: Always rinse themugwith hot water towarmit before adding any ingredient. One interesting thing that the
toddy reinforces is the importance ofwater inmaking drinks, hot or cold. Scotch and water, bourbon on the rocks, even the old fashioned allwork on similar principles:Alittle bit
Recommendations rrrExceptional rrExcellent rVery Good
Prices are approximate. Check
Winesearcher.com to verify availability, or ask a favorite wine store to order through a distributor.
Gingered Rum Toddy 1 serving
A basic toddy contains a spirit (whiskey, rum, brandy, etc.), sug-
ar and hot water. This delicious toddy, however, replaces the sugar with a ginger liqueur, the finest example of which is Domaine de Canton. The spicy ginger complements the deep molasses flavor of the dark rum. Adapted from Dan Searing, bartender at Room 11 in Columbia Heights.
INGREDIENTS
· 1/2 cup (4 ounces) hot water, just boiled, plus additional water to warm the mug
· 11/2 ounces dark rum, such as Gosling’s Black Seal
· 1/2 ounce ginger liqueur, preferably Domaine de Canton
· Twist of lemon peel
STEPS · Warm a cup or mug with a little of
the just-boiled water; swirl and discard.
· Add the rum and ginger liqueur. Stir in the 1/2 cup of just-boiled water. Twist the lemon peel over the cup to release its oils, then drop it in.
· Serve immediately.
NUTRITION | Per serving: 110 calories, 0 g protein, 0 g carbohydrates, 0 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 0mg cholesterol, 0mg sodium, 0 g dietary fiber, 0 g sugar
Recipe tested by Michael Taylor; e-mail questions to
food@washpost.com
Cascina Fonda “Bel Piano,” 2009 rrr
Piemonte, Italy, $19 This gorgeous wine is more flowery than most Moscato d’Asti, with aromas of rose hips and jasmine. It should especially appeal to fans of Gewurztraminer. On the palate, the
flowers mingle with ripe peaches and honey.
Dionysus: Available in the District at A. Litteri, Cork & Fork, Rodman’s; on the list at Cafe 8. Available in Maryland at Balducci’s and Bradley Food & Beverage in Bethesda,
Finewine.com in Gaithersburg, Iron BridgeWine Co. in Columbia, Spring Beer & Wine in Silver Spring,World GourmetWine & Beer in Potomac. Available in Virginia at Arrowine and Grand Cru in Arlington, Wegmans inWoodbridge and Gainesville,WineWarehouse in Charlottesville.
Massolino Moscato d’Asti, 2009 rrr
Piemonte, Italy, $24 Explosively aromatic, it has the enticing fragrances of a summer orchard. On the palate it is less intense and more elegant, precisely focused in its restraint.
Domain Select/Bacchus: Available in the District at MacArthur Beverages. On the list in Maryland at Sirocco in Baltimore.
Apple Toddy 4 servings
Apple toddies were all the rage in pre-Prohibition America.
They’re delicious, and worth the effort it takes to bake the apples (peeled and cored, in a 325-degree oven for about 30 minutes until softened). For an even bigger payoff, Spirits columnist Jason Wilson has adapted this recipe to serve a small group. The drinks can be assembled right in the mugs (half an apple for
each portion), but the toddy is nicer when you strain out the apple bits. Adapted from “Imbibe!” by David Wondrich (Perigee, 2007).
INGREDIENTS
· 15 ounces (2 cups minus 2 tablespoons) hot water, just boiled, plus more to warm the mugs
· 4 teaspoons sugar
· 2 peeled and cored baked apples (see headnote)
· 6 ounces applejack or apple brandy
· Freshly grated nutmeg, for garnish (optional)
STEPS · Warm 4 mugs with a little of the just-boiled water; swirl and discard.
· Combine the sugar with a splash (about 1 ounce) of the just-boiled water in a medium bowl, stirring to dissolve. Add the baked apples;
muddle them thoroughly. Add the applejack or apple brandy and mix well, then stir in 12 ounces of the water.
· Use a fine-mesh strainer to immediately strain equal portions of the liquid into the 4 mugs, discarding the solids. Top each portion with 1/2 ounce of hot water, and stir.
· Sprinkle with nutmeg, if desired. Serve immediately.
NUTRITION | Per serving: 150 calories, 0 g protein, 15 g carbohydrates, 0 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 0mg cholesterol, 0mg sodium, 1 g dietary fiber, 14 g sugar
Recipe tested by Michael Taylor; e-mail questions to
food@washpost.com
Albino Rocca Moscato d’Asti, 2009 rr1/2 Piemonte, Italy, $18 Here’s a classically styled Moscato, with a light, persistent fizz and a fruit bowl of flavor.
Marc de Grazia/Bacchus: On the list in the District at CityZen and Eola. Available in Maryland
at Berry Road Beer andWine inWaldorf, Largo Liquors in Upper Marlboro, Quarterfield Liquor in Glen Burnie.
Michele Chiarlo “Nivole” Moscato d’Asti, 2009 rr1/2
Piemonte, Italy, $14 (375 ml) This wine is exotic on the nose and intriguingly earthy, with roasted-fruit flavors and a hint of decay, like a peach not quite gone but cresting the arc of ripeness.
Kobrand/Republic National: Available in the District at Chat’s Liquors, MacArthur Beverages, Magruder’s, Pearson’s, Potenza Wine Shop, Sherry’s FineWine & Spirits, TenleyWine & Liquor, Van NessWines and Liquors; on the list at Asian Spice, Cuba Libre, DC Coast, Legal Seafoods, Maggiano’s, Ruth’s Chris Steak House.
DEB LINDSEY FOR THE WASHINGTON POST
Marcarini Moscato d’Asti, 2009 rr
Piemonte, Italy, $20 It has textbook fruit and balance, and is not as effusive as some.
Empson/Bacchus: Available in the District at CalvertWoodley and Dean & DeLuca. Available in Maryland at Crestwood Liquors in Frederick, Maryland Discount Beverage Center in Cumberland, McHenry Beverage Shoppe in McHenry, Pine Orchard Liquors in Ellicott City.
Patrizi Moscato d’Asti, 2009 rr
Piemonte, Italy, $12 Pale—almost colorless—but quite fizzy, this wine tastes of peach and persimmon; at this price, it is a great introduction to Moscato d’Asti. M. Touton Selection: Available in the District at
AB Liquors, Ace Beverage, Burka’sWine & Liquor, Paul’s of Chevy Chase, Subway Liquors II, TowneWine & Liquors; on the list at Fino. Available in Maryland at Cork & Bottle Liquor in Laurel; Dawson’s Liquors in Severna Park; the Italian Market in Annapolis; Old Farm Liquors andWestridge Liquors in Frederick; the Liquor Store, Nick’s of Clinton and theWine Shoppe inWaldorf; Nick’s of Calvert in Prince Frederick; RosewickWine & Spirits in La Plata; Wine & Liquor Depot in Brandywine;WishingWell Liquors in Easton. Available in Virginia at Le Tastevin FineWines in Alexandria, Rio HillWine & Gourmet in Charlottesville; on the list at Devil’s Backbone Brewing Co. in Roseland.
divide: It is capable of being an aperitif when well chilled (especially drier versions, though “dry” in this case is a matter of very small degrees) as well as a light dessert wine. It plays well with chocolate desserts, especially those with a strawberry or raspberry element. It really shines with fruit,
which suggests breakfast or brunch. And it is a natural with blueberry pancakes: The tartness of the blueberries and the sweeteners in maple syrup send the wine soaring to another level. So if you have family members staying over this holiday season and you need to entertain them throughout the day, get the festivities started with a glass or two ofMoscato d’Asti. And if one of your geekier
relatives starts debating the merits of moscato or its place in the rankings of fine wine, just turn up the volume on the parade or the football game and pour yourself another glass.
food@washpost.com
E5
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of dilution enhances flavor. “The hotwaterwill
emphasize certain aspects of the aroma that are unexpected,” Searing says. The sweetening aspect of the
toddy is also important.Will you use granulated sugar? Demerara?Honey?Maple syrup? Searing replaces sugar with orgeat in his cognac-based French Toddy. In his Caribbean Toddy,with overproof Smith and Cross rumas the spirit, he usesVelvet Falernumas his
sweetener.And in theGingered RumToddy, he replaces sugar withDomaine de Canton ginger liqueur,which pairs beautifully with the dark rum. Inmy own experiments, I
find that themore flavorful, higher-proof spiritswork best. For instance, the 108-proofWild TurkeyRare Breed has become a go-to
toddy.And it’s one drink where I favor the peaty Scotches such as Laphroig or Laguvulin. I also verymuch enjoy 100-
proof Laird’s StraightApple Brandy in hot drinks. That led me directly to another favorite of earlyAmerica, the apple toddy,madewith a real baked apple. Itwas “one of the particular treatsAmericans
looked towithwhich to solace theirwinters,” according to Wondrich,who cites the drink’s earliestmention as 1792: “When other drinks of similar vintage fell by thewayside, theApple Toddy continued into the era of electric light andmoving pictures, just as popular as ever.” Of course, the temperance
movement put an end to the popularity of apple brandy, as the government chopped down somany of the cider-apple orchards during Prohibition. After repeal, the apple toddy prettymuch disappeared from the scene. Until now, at least inmy
kitchen. There, youwill findme baking apples and stirring them,with apple brandy, into my
newmug.And on a cold winter afternoon, comforted by my toddy, Iwill ponder life’s big questions. For instance: Is 40 truly twice
as sexy as 20?Actually, that’s an easy question to answer. Indeed it is, young friend. Indeed it is.
Wilson is the author of
“Boozehound” (Ten Speed, 2010). He can be reached at
jasonwilson.com. Followhimat
twitter.com/boozecolumnist.
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