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Recipes
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KLMNO Cookies, app-ily ever after
Tie an apron on your iPad
BY JOE YONAN In the ongoing debate over
whether recipes should be set in stone (see Cook’s Illustrated) or mere guidelines (see Michael Ruhlman’s “Ratio”), a new iPad app stands to take cooking in- structions to a new level of vari- ability, interactivity and, possibly, obsession. Cookulus, the brainchild of cookbook author AndrewSchloss and entrepreneur Max Minkoff, starts off with three master reci- pes. But then the program lets youchoose justhowcrispy or soft, chewyor crumbly, thin or thick to make that chocolate chip, oat- meal raisin or peanut butter cookie, resulting in more than 1,300 unique recipes for each. Cookulus is an addictively
powerful (or is it powerfully ad- dictive?) way to geek out on a recipe. Even better, it works like a charm. Take chocolate chip, the itera-
tion that Schloss and colleague Max Minkoff let me play around with last week, while they were waiting for approval from the Apple store. First I pulled up the master recipe, then started mov- ing one of three sliders to get something softer or crumblier or thicker (or any combination thereof) and watched ingredient amounts, temperature and bak- ing time change in response. I could save each variation, nam- ing it and writing my own notes about it; I could choose among four ways to see the measure- ments, including metric weight; and I could scale the yield up by a factor of five. When I went for something pretty soft and chewy but a little thin, and made the recipe, that’s exactly what I got. The app includes pop-up win-
dows with more information about each ingredient, equip- ment and technique tips, and a built-in timer. Schloss started thinking about
the app after he and David Joachim wrote “The Science of Good Food”(Robert Rose, 2008), which included a chart analyzing
As that 260-degree instruction
indicates, the algorithm results in some nonstandard temperatures, but Schloss is confident that to- day’s digital-display ovens make such specificity easy to achieve. The app includes instructions for calibrating your oven. “The way I often viewthis kind
of thing is, if your oven is off 20 degrees, it’s going to be 20 de- grees off for every cookie you’ve ever baked, so you’ve either ad- justed your palate or your tim- ing,” Schloss said. “There is some leeway.” Schloss and Minkoff aren’t
stopping at cookies. Up next are brownies, then savory iterations of Cookulus: pizza, chili, mac and cheese.
COOKULUS
Top, Cookulus; left,Martha Stewart Makes Cookies.
Another iPad cookie app out
just in time for the holidays takes a much more, well,Martha Stew- art approach. Martha Stewart Makes Cookies includes 50 reci- pes divided into eight categories, including those “for traditional- ists,” “for little ones,” “for hedo- nists” and more. “Today, I’m so excited to bake cookies from a newsource that is functional and, more than anything, a lot of fun,” Stewart says in her video intro- duction. The app, produced by Callaway
COPYRIGHT 2010, MARTHA STEWART LIVING OMNIMEDIA
the effects of different ingredient amounts and proportions on cookies. But what a cookbook can’t effectively do — communi- cate multiple variations on a reci- pe—is perfect for an app. But where to start? Including
all kinds of cookies in one app would be too unwieldy, as would all drop cookies (as opposed to, say, rolled or bar cookies) because of the various flavor possibilities. They settled on icons: cookies that are widely loved but that spark disagreements among cooks with strong opinions about which recipe is ideal. Even Schloss was surprised
when the algorithm they devel- oped—based on the idea that, for instance, a thinner cookie would bake for a longer time at a lower temperature, or that more brown sugar and less butter would make
the cookie chewier — worked whenhe started testing hundreds of the resulting recipes. But he wasn’t completely sold until the breakthrough: ultimately thin, crispy cookies. “The algorithm toldmeto bake
the cookies at 260 degrees for 45 minutes, and I thought, ‘This thing does not work,’ ” Schloss said in aphoneinterviewfromhis office in Elkins Park, Pa. “And I madethe cookies, put them in the oven, and I started to redo them ’cause I just knew it wasn’t going to work. And then 45 minutes later, they came out, and they were thin and crisp, and they weren’t burned, and they didn’t spread too far, and I went, ‘[Ex- pletive], this works.’ The logic of the algorithm toldmeto dosome- thing that as a professional cook I never would have done.”
Digital Arts in association with Martha Stewart Living Omnime- dia Inc., includes a timer feature, as Cookulus does, but it also lets you compile a shopping list from multiple recipes, watch videos and even, in true Martha style, e-mail templates for packaging ideas (such as star-shaped glass- ine wrappers for peppercorn shortbread). For fans of design, the app
mightbeworth it for the stunning visuals alone, but any baker worth his or her salt will want to domuchmore than just look at it. The best part of both of these apps is that they make you feel like baking.
yonanj@washpost.com
Cookulus costs $2.99 for the basic app, which includes the chocolate chip cookie, and 99 cents for each additional cookie (peanut butter and oatmeal raisin). Sign up for notification about its availability from the Apple store by visiting
www.cookulus.com. Martha Stewart Makes Cookies costs $4.99.
PHOTOS BY DEB LINDSEY FOR THE WASHINGTON POST
All the Cookulus chocolate chip cookie recipes call for the same amounts of baking soda, salt and egg. But when you change the cookie’s desired attributes, the app alters the amounts of other ingredients, oven temperature and baking time. Compared with the default recipe, the cookie above used less flour, less white sugar and more brown sugar, and baked at a higher temperature for a shorter time to achieve a very soft, very chewy, somewhat thin result. See the recipe forVery Soft,Very Chewy, Kinda Thin Chocolate Chip Cookies
atwww.washingtonpost.com/recipes.
WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 8, 2010
The recipe for this version created a somewhat chewy, somewhat thick by increasing the temperature to 425 degrees (from the default 350) and cutting the baking time to 6 minutes (from 14 minutes).
This version is a little crispy, a little chewy, using the default setting for neither thick nor thin. The amount of sugar was reduced by 1 tablespoon and the oven temperature was reduced to 345 degees. tablespoon and the temperature to reduce by just 5 degrees.
This one turned out very crispy, very crumbly and somewhat thin, by increasing the amount of flour by 1/4
cup, slightly reducing the amounts of butter and sugar and cutting the baking time by 1 minute.
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