CRUISE


VICKY RICHARDS Sets sail on a


spectacular journey to discover Norway and the Arctic Circle on Havila Castor...


NORWAY has truly spectacular scenery and one of the best ways to see it is on a cruise or a coastal voyage up the Norwegian coastline. We did just that with Havila Voyages – a new Norwegian owned cruise line launched in December 2021, licensed to sail the Hurtigruten route. We sailed for 6 days on the northern voyage from Bergen along Norway’s 1,650 mile coastline to Kirkenes, in the Arctic Circle.


It is not like a traditional cruise, as the ship makes 34 stops along the way – some for only ten minutes, some in the middle of the night and others long enough for guests to take one of the organized excursions or ‘expeditions’ as the fantastic expedition team on board prefer


to call them. The


shorter stops allow passengers to disembark / embark and for the ship to unload / load cargo providing a vital service to the coastal communities and ensuring the freshest of local produce on board. The ship has a very Scandinavian, contemporary feel


to it, with floor to ceiling windows in all public areas and a glass ceiling on the top deck. With a maximum of 640 passengers and 179 cabins, it is a very relaxed cruise. It is one of most eco-friendly ships at sea, at this point in time, with the world’s largest battery pack installed on the ship meaning that it can sail up to four hours with zero emissions.


It also runs on LNG


(liquid natural gas) which along with the hybrid system cuts CO2 emissions by around 40% – something the Norwegians are very proud of. The ’wow’ factor during the voyage, is the scenery.


From majestic fjords (over 1000) to picture perfect villages; gushing waterfalls; snow-capped mountains; glaciers – and with every corner turned another spectacular scene comes into view. Leaving the lively city of Bergen behind, we set sail


for Ålesund and the Geirangerfjord, with its inky blue deep waters, sparkling waterfalls towering granite walls, this UNESCO site was truly awe inspiring. As we sailed further up the coastline towards the


Arctic Circle, our next ‘expedition’ was Trondheim, a lively University city with over 40,000 students, and here we went city cycling, along the city’s red cycle lanes, passing brightly painted warehouses, a covered wooden bridge and the statuesque Nidelvin Cathedral – one of largest cathedrals in Northern Europe and Norway’s national shrine. Back on board. we continued to sail through inlets


and up little fjords – one so tight, at only 40 metres wide, it made an exciting spectacle to see from the top deck. Dotted along the coast, clusters of fishermen cottages painted red, ochre yellow, or creamy white would suddenly appear – providing yet another ‘must take’ photo. When the ship crossed the Arctic


Circle, 66° 56´ degrees north, the Blue Nose ceremony took place.


Njord,


The sea god does not


paint your nose blue (an old Navy tradition), but instead ladles ice cold water over your head and ice cubes down your back to ‘celebrate the crossing’. Although,


not mandatory,


Alaskan huskies and the firm commands of the experienced ‘musher’ or sled driver. Following the ride, we were able to meet and greet these very friendly huskies – up close and personal! The next day, we travelled as far north as you can go by land to 71° north to the North Cape. This was truly a highlight for me to see nature at its rawest. The Northern Lights, also known as the Aurora Borealis are at their most spectacular during October to March; or from May to June experience the land of the Midnight Sun*. The landscape is


bleak and harsh – home to reindeer and the indigenous Sami people. It is where the Atlantic Ocean and the Barents Sea meet – resulting in turbulent waters. On a clear day, you can see the curvature


the


ceremony gives you a chance to bond with fellow passengers and is certainly a good ‘ice breaker’ for some! The next stop is


the Lofoten Islands, which are steeped in


Viking


history and famous for its stockfish, one of Norway’s oldest and lucrative exports throughout the world. At Bodø, we had the chance to see the world’s strongest tidal current – Saltstraumen.


The narrow


strait between the fjord and the sea with a metre height difference creating massive whirlpools and maelstroms – just mesmerising. We continued to sail to the very ‘top’ of Norway to Tromsø, known as the ‘Paris of the North’, a city that never sleeps in the summer, and is renowned for its lively coffee culture and pavement restaurants. Here we booked our next ‘expedition,’ to go Dog Sledding along a six kilometre snow covered hill trail where the only sounds to be heard, were the yelping of the excited


of the earth – truly amazing. Our six-day voyage ended at Kirkenes, as far east as you can travel in Europe – right up to the Russian border. Here the ship’s ‘expeditions’ include King Crab


fishing, Arctic bathing and sauna or a visit to the Snow Hotel. Unfortunately, our voyage was over and we had to catch a flight back to Heathrow from Kirkenes via Oslo – seamless. The ship now headed south to Bergen and provided


the remaining passengers on board, six more days of fantastic scenery and other expeditions, including midnight golf, a rib boat ride to see sea eagles or a polar walk in the Tundra. Food on board, very much reflects the Norwegian influence. The menu changes with the location and landscape – Flavours of the Fjord; the Polar Region; the Arctic and the Archipelago, resulting in a new menu every two to three days during the trip. Local speciality dishes at dinner included Vestland


fish stew; baked cod from Vaag, in Lofoten; king crab from Varanger, as well as delicious rack of lamb from Dovrefell, and porchetta from Norwegian free-range pigs. Desserts feature local fruits such as cloudberries with sea buckthorn cream. Lunch is a selection of small dishes – Norwegian ’tapas ‘style such as Tronfjell cured ham or crispy pea schnitzel or cucumber sashimi. The Havrand Dining Room is at the stern of the ship


A CRUISE... BUT NOT AS YOU KNOW IT!


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