THE BLACK SEA
our ship left one world, a corner of the old soviet union, and emerged in another
The Russian port of Sochi was another memorable call for me, not least because of the visit to Stalin’s dacha, or summer home, where you can pose next to a wax model of the man himself at his original desk, or pretend to pot a ball on his snooker table. Sochi is dotted with hot springs and spas and has an almost subtropical feel; the development for the 2014 Winter Olympics is further inland, in the mountains, but there’s a real feeling of energy here. Black Sea cruises usually start and finish in
Istanbul. Many include an overnight, a great opportunity to spend a full day exploring the magnificent Topkapi Palace, the Blue Mosque and the Byzantine church (now a museum) of Agia Sofia (below), as well as other attractions like the Grand Bazaar and the Egyptian Market, for spices, clothing, arts and crafts. The city has superb museums and galleries, as well as some extremely chic restaurants along the shores of the Bosphorus. So as my cruise came to an end, it was a curious feeling, getting up before dawn to stand on deck as our ship left one world, a corner of Europe where the old Soviet Union meets the 21st century head on, and emerged in another, more familiar setting, as we neared the Golden Horn and the first rays of the sun struck the ramparts and minarets.
Church of Agia Sofia, Istanbul
››Fact File What’s the itinerary?
There are many permutations of Black Sea itinerary – some include a sdelection of the Greek islands, for example. But pretty well all cruises visit Istanbul, Sevastopol, Odessa, Yalta and Sochi.
How long will it be?
Cruises range from seven to 14 nights; many include overnights in Istanbul and Odessa.
What makes the Black Sea different?
The layers of history, from the Roman remains of Nessebar in Bulgaria to the Crimean war to the Cold War, and the accessibility to places that were closed to the outside world until only recently.
Who would it suit?
You really have to have an interest in culture and history to cruise the Black Sea; it’s not the best destination for young families.
52 What should I take?
Small denomination US dollars or euros rather than local currency. Conservative clothing; many places are Muslim, or very traditional, or both.
Who goes there?
Lines visiting the Black Sea this year and in 2013 include Azamara Club Cruises, Compagnie du Ponant, Crystal Cruises, Costa Cruises, Cunard, Holland America Line, MSC, Noble Caledonia, Oceania, P&O Cruises, Princess Cruises, Quest for Adventure, Regent Seven Seas Cruises, Saga Cruises, Seabourn, Silversea, Swan Hellenic, Voyages to Antiquity and Voyages of Discovery.
Sample itinerary
Quest for Adventure (formerly Saga Pearl II), sails from Istanbul on September 26 2013 for 14 nights, calling at Batumi, Sochi, Kerch, Yalta (overnight), Sevastopol, Odessa (overnight), Contanza, Varna and Nessebar (Call Saga on 0800 50 50 30 or visit
saga.co.uk).
| APRIL/MAY 2012
CRUISE-INTERNATIONAL.COM
PHOTOS: ISTOCK/ SUE BRYANT MAP: ROBERT LITTLEFORD
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