The first course was Crudo di Pesce—an artful and perfectly balanced display of fla-
vors. Ahi tuna medallions and shallots are accentuated by chile Serrano and a balsamic soy reduction—all arranged on the plate to resemble a modern-art masterpiece… which, in all honesty, it is. With the heat set to a subtle four out of ten, the tangy, refresh- ing garnish of pickled carrots and cucumber helped to cool the palate, but it quickly revealed a spice of its own. The first in a series of salads was the Barbabietole—pleasantly sweet with mellow cubes of roasted red and yellow baby beets top peppery arugula in a dazzling, sugary fig dressing, sprinkled with gorgonzola crumbles and crisp pumpkin seeds. The layers of pleasing textures made this more than just any green salad. Continuing on a seaward course, the Polpo Salad—boldly presented chilled octo-
pus, flavorful hearts of palm strips, capers and sweet roasted peppers brought together by a balsamic reduction and extra virgin olive oil. Vivid flashes of citrus were presented with a twist: blood orange slices decorated and stabilized this fresh selection adding a much-appreciated element, finally making an octopus fan out of me. Heading full speed into a bay of culinary delights, the Risotto di Mare brought a
more traditional touch to our meal—steamed mussels and clams impart their unmis- takable essence onto a moist bed of carnaroli rice, while plump shrimp and calamari play on the delicate aromas of parsley and saffron. If you love seafood—and being reminded with every bite that your seafood is fresh, then you’ll love this. They say height can advance the look of your plate’s presentation. The case of Gam-
beri alla Busalacchi is certainly no exception. Aromatic jumbo prawns and grilled asparagus capture the senses as crispy potato threads crown the top of a mouthwater- ingly smooth and savory potato mash. Bearing a strong resemblance to green olives on a vine, a surprising tart treat of caper berries offer their zesty appeal as they swim in a velvety pinot grigio, garlic and meyer lemon sauce. This may have been the favorite at our table. The mash was exceptional, with a delicate blend of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, garlic and “a little bit” of butter. Just a little, I’m sure. Making a triumphant return to the mainland, Manzo Modo Mio treated us to fork-
tender short ribs and a firm-but-buttery polenta. Flanked by cipolini onions, resting in a pool of sweet demi-glace shallot sauce and topped with elegant broccolini florets, this sweet take on comfort food has been elevated to an infinitely higher status. Recovering from the barrage of haute cuisine, the boys and I were torn as whether
or not to inquire about desserts. Lucky for us, Stefano took the helm indulging us once again—first with fresh-made Zeppoli—a typical Sicilian dessert of deep fried “Italian donuts” sprinkled with brown sugar, honey and cinnamon. Served with an assortment of fruit, we couldn’t say no to this simple favorite. Alongside the zeppoli were the Can- noli Siciliani—tube-shaped shells of crisp pastry dough, filled with a mouthwatering
Speaking of tempting, we certainly couldn’t pass up a round of mixologist talent. Especially when our favorite drinks were presented in such a tantalizing way.
SETTING THE BAR HIGH
STRAWBERRY BASIL LEMONADE – Absolut Vanilla, strawberry purée, fresh mashed basil, fresh squeezed lemonade and a balsamic sugar rim. If there were ever a drink that tasted “just right,” this would certainly be the one.
CUCUMBER AND MINT MARTINI – Strong, yet clean and refreshing. Absolut pear vodka, fresh mint, fresh cucumber slices and pressed apple juice join to cool you down when the night heats up. For an even cleaner, to-the-point rendition, ask the bartender to substitute the pear vodka for Belvedere or Grey Goose vodka.
orange-zest infused ricotta cream filling and chocolate chips. Minimalist, elegant and blessedly free of Maraschino cherries, I shamelessly took the last bite. Okay, the last three. I’ve expressed this sentiment before, but San Diego’s Italian cuisine culture could benefit immeasurably from the Busalacchi’s standards of excellence. But perhaps a meal like this is best enjoyed only sporadically. Or perhaps not! The restaurant’s bold new happy hour Monday through Friday from 9 to 11 p.m. boasts incredible deals on classic plates to satiate the late-night beast. All glasses of wine are offered half-off regular price and well cocktails are $4. Imagine it: fine dining and high-end ambiance for only $4 to $7 per selection. The invigorating breeze on the bar patio has never made this more tempting.
BUSALACCHI’S A MODO MIO is located at 3707 5th Avenue between Pennsylvania and Evans Place. For reservations, call 619.298.0119. Visit
facebook.com/Busalacchis.AModoMio for the latest specials and menu updates.
JULY 2011 | RAGE monthly 73
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