style cuisine of “big, bold flavor with balance.” At first, one might think, “Hmm, that’s an odd
combination” with seafood and dessert vying for your taste buds’ attention at the same time. Once you get over your momentary trepidation, you’ll find that you haven’t put your spoon down long enough to stop eating it, as the flavors combine in a wonderful syn- chronicity that delectably encompasses the “sweet, salty, sour and bitter” concept that Wagner has nailed. Next up is another great way to start off, and also an additional example of how Eden will set itself apart from other area restaurants. Never in my wild dreams would I have thought of adding Carne Asada and Caribbean Pork into a Dim Shui (a Chinese-inspired dumpling), but that’s why we are lucky to have Wagner setting up shop in the hood. With two dipping sauces to choose from, I was so taken with their own flavor with this precise example of the word “appetizer,” that I opted to eat the majority of them au natural. And this is most definitely in line with Wagner’s philosophy of only using the freshest ingredients. So, it was more than fitting that my next course
consisted of a very fresh catch of the day in the mouth-watering guise of Black Cat, which is a Pecan Praline encrusted Catfish that is served with a Creole Béchamel Sauce, Cajun Dirty Rice and Greens. Not only was the Black Cat huge in taste with its de- licious sauce, but it was equal to that in its portioning. As was the case with A Cuban Conquest, which I
Chef Scotty Wagner
gladly surrendered to, with the phrase “to die for” coming immediately to mind, as the pork medallions literally melted in my mouth. Wagner has pulled off another amazing feat with the Tomatillo Poppers be- ing a sweet confection, with nary a trace of the usual spiciness that is linked with the Jalapeno family of Poppers. “My goal is to have the whole tongue going,”
Wagner said of his masterful approach to dining out. “I want people to feel comfortable coming here for anything, and they’re not going to pay a fortune to get great food.” This is definitely a case of mission accomplished
in that endeavor, and there will be many ways to seek out the diversity of Eden, with specific themes for certain days during its regular open seven days a week schedule. For example, there’s the ’70s themed “Brady Brunch” on Sundays with a ’80s-inspired “BGBQ” (Boy George Barbeque) later that day, while the regular menu is a Wednesday through Saturday event. Plus, Eden is open late, closing up shop at 1:30 a.m., but no matter which day or night you choose to dine out, you will feel as though you’ve discovered paradise for the budget conscious.
For more information, log onto
edensandiego.com
NOVEMBER 2010 | RAGE monthly 77
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