INDULGENCES eating out by tim parks
Forbidden Fruits Of Flavor Hillcrest residents may have noticed a flurry of construction activity recently
at 1202 University Avenue, which had previously housed the now-defunct night- club Universal, as well as the eating establishment Dish. Curious passersby may have wondered to themselves, “What’s going in there…
a new dance club? A new restaurant? Or is it someplace I can get a late-night comfort food fix?” Well, the answer to those questions would be a resounding “yes,” as owner, Chef
Scotty Wagner told me of Eden and its sister eatery, ChileCo Bistro. The latter is an offshoot of Wagner’s successful top-rated catering business, which is
renowned for its organic approach to food done right and healthy for Southern Califor- nia residents. These two great tastes, housed on the corner of University and Vermont, will most definitely taste great together, as they share a distinct commonality. “I couldn’t switch to not being green, not going organic,” he said. “I can thin it down a little bit, but I couldn’t give it up. My own style is very definitive as a style fusion. This menu is local cuisine that’s inspired by global flavors.”
“It’s everything from the Caribbean to South African flavors,” Wagner explained. “And,
what’s really interesting is that I get so much of my product from local farmers and the Farmers Market, to be able to pull off that kind of International flavor is one of the things that makes it really unique.” Wagner has a “get it done and get it done right” motto. His enthusiasm about what
Eden would look like left very little to the imagination, as he lovingly described what he terms the “enlightened lovechild” that he and its other owner, David Laurent, have conceived. “So, it’s going to be like The Abbey,” he explained. “It’s going to be open, so it pulls the
space all together. This whole place I can transform it constantly, and the club, as well as the lounge portion, because nothing is built in.” The reason for my visit, naturally, was to nosh on what are sure to become staples among patrons, even though there are many other delicious dishes to be had after viewing the menu. First up for this inaugural feast was Passion Fruit Scallop Ceviche served over Sorbet, which epitomizes what Wagner is setting out to do with his fusion-
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RAGE monthly | NOVEMBER 2010
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