TR A V E L
day. Although the treatments are designed around calm, the array of diff erent antelopes, the menacing cape
relaxation and rejuvenation, guests can design their own buff alo, the 6-inch millipedes, the elegant bee-eaters.
program from a number of options. The excitement of this environment is in the discovery
In the later afternoon, we meet on the lodge balcony of these animals through chance and the ranger’s
again for tea and cakes, and set off for the evening game skill. The emotional power of being in their space and
drive now that the day’s heat is waning. The guides without the degree of separation provided by a zoo’s
call enthusiastically to each other – one has found the fence is strong, and keeps everyone talking long after
tracks of a lion, and we follow them to fi nd a lioness we arrive back at the lodge in darkness. We ate on the
resting alone in long grass. Hardly caring to raise her lodge’s lower balcony that evening, with a blazing fi re
head, she appraises us with at our backs, and the sense
pale yellow eyes, apparently that the vastness of Africa
unable to make us out as started just at our elbows.
vulnerable individuals while On another occasion we ate
we are seated in the truck. under the stars in the “boma”
As we watch, a powerful –like a livestock enclosure,
rain shower sweeps again lit and warmed by an
through, lightning fl ashing open fi re. It was a cheerful,
close by with operatic sociable night with good
cracks of thunder. One wine and company – people
particularly close gets the interested in animals tend to
lioness’ attention and she be interesting too.
gets up looking miserable On the occasion of our
as only a wet cat can and visit, there were no children
ambles to a very small bush at Tau, but the lodge has
nearby where she puts her recently gone to great lengths
head under its ineff ective to make the experience
shelter. Unlike her we keep family-friendly. There are
dry in the canvas roofed now two family chalets,
truck, quickly donning each with two bedrooms
Left Top to Bottom: Safari vehicles. The lobby of the lodge.
ponchos, and stay until the
Top and Above: Tau’s natural watering hole where the elephants
and a shared living space
shower passes, fascinated
come to wallow. Dining by the fi re.
opening onto a large balcony.
by the proximity of such controlled power. Later we While adults go on the main game drives, baby-sitting
stop for sundowners – wine and nibbles from Edmund’s is provided in the family chalet or in the Cubz Club,
ingenious table, comparing reactions to the things we’d an outdoor play area with an activities shed. There is
seen and interrogating our ranger for more details. the option of a children’s game drive, diff ering mainly
The Sun goes down quickly (we are just a degree in being briefer to suit shorter attention spans. Longer
of longitude South of the Tropics) and we drive back drives can be booked privately. The over-6s are welcome
slowly, Edmund picking out a barn owl with his powerful on the main game drives. To introduce children to the
searchlight, the scent of the acacia bushes priming our wild is to give them a gift that will remain with them
senses for dinner. Without listing every animal we always.
saw (the lodge helpfully provides a tick-card for all the Back on our own balcony with a drink, looking over
species likely to be seen – an extensive document) we the dark watering hole and wondering at the dramas
came close to most of the animals we hoped to see, and behind some of the unseen yelps, we regretted that
many more we hadn’t expected to fi nd so fascinating. the next morning we would have to leave (though after
While it’s true that on our brief visit we didn’t see a another game drive); we felt that just one more night
leopard or cheetah, we found all the other large animals, would have been right; perhaps one always feels that at
and looking down my list I remember among others Tau. www.taugamelodge.co.za


EX P A T R I A T E 41
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