FO O D
tender and succulent. And so barbecue was born as a and train up the boys and girls working the pits. Owned
Southern thing, with local variations springing from local by seasoned restaurateur André Blais — a Quebecois
diff erences. The oldest styles, in Memphis, Tennessee, sports-nut — and Londoner Quentin Reynolds — like
and the Carolinas, remain loyal to the porker, while in Andre, a music buff who is also interior decorator to UK-
Texas the presence of longhorns, cowboys, Mexicans, based US expat Madonna — Bodean’s continues to live
Czechs and Germans gave rise to four distinct barbecue up to the highest Kansas City barbecue tradition, which
sub-styles. includes great music and sports (Kansas City Royals and
But as railroad hub of the South, Kansas City, Chiefs all have a longstanding barbecue connection).
Missouri, is the barbecue melting-pot, picking and You can’t stop globalization, though, and it’s a
mixing the best from every style around. Variety is measure of how things are moving that Bodean’s have
the spice of KC BBQ, starting with the meats, which just beefed up their operation by recruiting a crack duo
include pulled pork, pork ribs, burnt ends (cut from the of, wait for it, Balts. Yes, the Estonians are coming, in
ends of a smoked beef or pork brisket), smoked sausage, the shape of Priit Toomits and Enn Tobreluts, both
beef brisket, beef ribs, smoked/grilled chicken, smoked of them award-winning chefs, cooking coaches and
turkey, and sometimes fi sh. The meat is smoked with cookbook authors. Barbecue is a booming subculture in
a dry rub (a mixture of salt and spices applied before Estonia, last summer’s open-air Grillfest, for example,
cooking), and the diner should not hold back on the drawing 16,000 visitors. “The Estonian summer is short
table sauce, in varieties both sweet and spicy based on — July to September,” says Enn Tobreluts. “People
tomatoes and molasses. Side dishes like baked beans, want to get 100 per cent out of it — and good food.”
french fries, and coleslaw abound. Estonian-cooked barbecue in London, England?
A century on from the founding pit of barbecue Well, a cuisine derived from a Caribbean word using
legend Henry Perry, Kansas City boasts more than 100 Spanish pigs and American wood fuels and developed
barbecue restaurants and is the hub of a whole sub- by Czechs and Germans says, Why not? What, after all,
culture overseen by the Kansas City Barbeque Society, could be more American?
which sanctions over 300 barbecue contests per year in
__________________________
44 diff erent states. Standards are sky-high, and when
Bodean’s was founded in London they got one of the
For details of Bodean’s branches, menus, catering and
best barbecue chefs in the business to create the menu
special deals, see www.bodeansbbq.com.


OM
.C
KLIKK@DREAMSTIME
BODEANS;
Above: Sign for Arthur Bryant’s Barbeque in Kansas City.
36 EX P A T R I A T E
Barbeque.indd 36 6/10/2009 3:58:15 PM
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