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LO N D O N EY E
interesting refl ecting its colonial past, with West African waterfalls. There are electric carts to take you around
and European infl uences as well as Caribbean. Naturally to view everything.
being an island, fi sh and seafood feature heavily in Bajan
Along with all this, some wonderful golf courses,
cooking. Although some dishes are hot and spicy, many
and great weather with lots of sun and cool breezes,
are somewhat bland. The British infl uence?
Barbados is a great vacation destination.
The fl ying fi sh is both the national emblem and also
Faithful readers may remember that some time ago,
the national dish. Cou-Cou a blend of cornmeal and
in a past column, I pointed out that London’s taxi fares
okra is the usual accompaniment.
were among the highest in the world. This was of course
The Waterfront Café in Bridgetown, the capital, is
under the reign of Mayor Ken. Given the dramatic drop
very reminiscent of New Orleans in its funky atmosphere
in the price of oil, the general economic turndown, and
and great Bajan/Creole cooking. One of the best dishes
the lack of taxi-riding bankers, Mayor Boris has seen fi t
I have ever eaten was their pepperpot stew. The depth,
to raise the fares to maintain London’s top spot in the
richness and intensity of fl avour were truly extraordinary.
taxi fare Olympics. And no doubt provide an economic
The recipe would take up half the magazine but includes
stimulus to those who need a taxi to the dole offi ce.

oxtail, pork, beef, salt beef, and chicken among other
things. Add to this a myriad of spices, peppers and herbs
and then cook in three diff erent pots before combining
into the fi nished dish.
Another place to eat is Oistins - a sort of open air
food court in the fi sh market. At the centre are tables
and chairs, surrounded by 25 or so stalls frying or grilling
every variety of fresh fi sh available in Barbados. And not
just fi sh. Some stands also serve chicken and barbeque
along with sweet potato pie. It is all delicious with
live music to jolly things up. Open only on Friday and
Saturday nights, it is a place where Bajans come to eat,
drink and enjoy an evening out.
One fascinating place not to be missed is Harrison’s
Cave with stalactites, stalagmites, streams, lakes and
WEN
OSS O
R
RIGANI;
Top and Above: A yellow and red Pride of Barbados.
The Chamberlain Bridge spanning the Careenage, Bridgetown.
Above Right: The Waterfront Cafe in Bridgetown.
10 EX P A T R I A T E
Owen.indd 10 08/06/2009 13:31:54
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