42 Time 4 Me, February 2010
travel
Trip back in time...
LAMBERINGthrough acastle that Northern Cyprushas
sweepshigh above asteep hilltop travelpoint
in Northern Cyprus,Icould see much to attract
why its magical ruins are believed Bestfor: Couples and familiesC
to have helped inspire Walt Timetogo: Greatescape in winterBritish tourists, as
Don’tforget: Astout pair of walkingshoesDisney’s film Sleeping Beauty.
and/or flat sandals to explore ancient ruinsAs Isat on arock to recharge my batteries VICTORIA SHAW
● Direct Traveller offers seven nights’ half-by St Hilarion Castle, Ilooked down on the
boardatthe Malpas Hotel from January 1-fairytale surroundings below, including the found out
March 31 from £429, inc. flights from London,labyrinth of rooms and tunnels that appear
transfers and seaview room upgradealmost to havegrown out of the rocks.
● A56-night half-board stay during winterTheunspoiltnatural beauty of Northern Bellapais. The villageisimmortalised in the
starts at £1,056,including flightsand returnCyprus has much to attractBritons. The book Bitter Lemons Of Cyprus by
transferslaidback Turkish third of the island has few
Lawrence Durrell, brotherofnaturalist ● Visit www.directtraveller.com or call 0845traces of mass tourism. Northern Cyprus
Gerald,which recounts his tales of moving to 123 5383enjoys long, hotMediterraneansummers
Cyprus in the 1950s.wheretemperatures reach avery pleasant
the ruins of ahuge Roman complex featuringThe building is one of the monuments to35C, while winters are mostly mild.
baths and atheatrethatwould haveheldthe numerous civilisations that have beenCitrus fruits thrive and olive trees blanket
15,000spectators.established on the island.themountains,surrounding villages where in
Thestamp of different cultures means theThe main part was built between1198andmany ways time has stood still for centuries.
local food has mixed influences.The1205 by King Hugh III of France,withItalianThe unhurried pace is reflected in its nightlife
traditionalmeze, made up of hot and coldfrescoes at the entrance of the chapel dating–morecosybarsand restaurantsthan
appetisers including salads, meat and fish, isto the 15th century.pounding clubs.
aparticular attraction. Meals tend to beTravellers can take their time wanderingAn obvious starting point for visitors is
washed down with aTurkish coffee.throughthe narrow streetsofBellapais,withKyrenia, with its distinctive horseshoe-
For another authentic experience,try aits boutiques and restaurants. In the mainshapedharbour boasting colourful fishing
traditional Turkish massage. Mine was fairlysquare,where locals stopand chat, standsboatsand alivelyyet relaxedatmosphere.
vigorous,but it left me feeling great.what Durrell named “The Tree of Idleness”.You can enjoy an evening drink outside one
Gettingaround by car is alsoFor amore energetic pace walk up to Stof the restaurants at the water’sedgeand
straightforward as motorists drive on theHilarion Castle.The viewsare stunning,buttake in the unhurried surroundings.
left.Standard car hire costs little overyou really need apair of sturdy, flat shoes toMy first stop was the Malpas Hotel,
£20 per day.explore the hidden nooks and crannies –plusnestledinhills outsidethe villageofCatalkoy
Butwhile the natural beauty of Northernabottle of water, although asmall cafe nearfive miles east of Kyrenia. It boaststwo
Cyprus is undeniable, itspolitical pastcaststheentranceisusefultorechargetheoutdoorswimming pools, an indoor pool,
ashadow on the island.The scars of itsbatteries on the way down.steam rooms and even acasino.
recent history–including barbed wire,The castle is said to be named after aholyIalsostayed at the elegantColony Hotel in
abandonedbuildings and the presence ofman and hermit who lived there in the lastKyrenia, whichboasts apool on the roof with
troops –are visibleand not entirely inyears of his life and was possibly buriedgreat views of the town, the coastline and
keeping with aholidayatmosphere. Butthereinthe 8thcentury AD.the nearby Five Finger Mountains.
Britonswho love the place turn ablind eyeThose who want to furtherexploreAfew miles east of Kyrenia
to things like this.NorthernCyprus’s varied history can visitstands the gothic abbey at
They delight in asunny climatevirtuallySalamis,animportant tradingcentredating
year-round and the natural beauty evident onback to the 11th century BC.
many stretchesoftheMediterraneanTourists wanderHARBOUR VIEW:
coastline –and hope others won’t discoveraroundKyrenia harbour
thecharms of NorthernPA Photo/Direct Traveller
Cyprus for years
to come.
TIME 4 ME 042 Feb 2010
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