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Machu Picchu: instead, like most visitors, home for a Spanish conquistador. All
we went the easy way, on a quaint blue graceful arched columns swooping around
train that chugged from Ollantaytambo to a pretty central courtyard, the interior
the sprawling town of Aguas Calientes. design has been sensitively carried out by
The journey took us through a deep Jose Koechlin’s wife, who has added
gorge beside the roaring Urubamba river, honey-coloured stone walls, intricate
taking in vistas of dramatic cliffs softened woven rugs and priceless Incan artefacts.
by carpets of brightly coloured flowers. Cobbled Cusco is home to the arty San
One minute we were in a dusty market in Blas barrio (district) where galleries and
uninspiring Aguas Calientes, the next we quirky bars jostle for attention. If clients
had wandered from the Machu Picchu ask for restaurant recommendations,
Pueblo Hotel off into the cloud forest, an direct them to the smart Tuscan hangout
oasis of ferns and subtropical foliage. Cicciolina, for fusion dishes such as osso
This 87-room hotel is designed to buco (braised veal shanks) in beer and
reflect a local village and guestrooms are scallops in soy sauce. Nearby architectural
large and rustically decorated, with treasures on the must-see list include the
chunky wooden furniture and colourful puma-shaped Saqsaywaman fortress and
blankets contrasting with sleek glass and Andahuaylilla’s 17th-century church,
marble bathrooms. The lodge has two sometimes called the Andean Sistine
restaurants, serving an excellent mix of Chapel for its ornate interior.
local and international food.
The existence of Machu Picchu wasn’t Hotel du Lac
discovered until American historian Hiram From Cusco we journeyed onwards and
Bingham virtually stumbled upon it with a upwards to the Titilaka hotel, perched on
local guide in 1911. These days, suggest to the side of Lake Titicaca, the world’s
clients they need to get there by 6.30am to highest navigable lake. Getting there was
see more of the sunrise and less of the half the fun; a bumpy drive along a dirt
crowds. After our early start and a short track and a boat ride with guide Julius
uphill walk, we were standing in front of Caesar, who was taking us to meet his Uros
the incredible vista of this iconic sight family. The Uros live on floating islands
engulfed by mountain peaks as a condor made from weaving tons of reeds together,
soared above our heads. The sun floods the eating fish and reeds as their staple diet.
scene’s 200-plus stone buildings, neatly While it was fascinating to find out
jigsawed together by the talented Incas. about the Uros culture, I was relieved to
reach luxurious lake-front Titilaka and to
Dizzy heights discover we were dining on alpaca steak
Next stop is Cusco, once the heart of the and a delicious three-milk pudding, rather
Incan Empire. Driving into its fabulous than reeds and fish.
central square, Plaza de Armas, was Peru is a wondrous place of discovery
literally breathtaking. At 3,326 metres it’s and adventure and Last Frontiers, which
more than twice as high as Ben Nevis, meticulously organised our tour, says the
research funded by tourism, creating jobs Britain’s highest mountain. Altitude country has wide appeal, from families
and conserving the natural bio-diversity. sickness can occur anywhere above looking for rafting and mountain biking to
And we’re the first carbon neutral 2,400m, with breathlessness, headaches couples and honeymooners enchanted by
organisation in Peru,” says Koechlin. and sickness. Luckily we’d adjusted beautiful historic hotels, markets and
When Inkaterra built the Machu Picchu gradually during the journey through stunning scenery. Next time your clients
Pueblo Hotel, they also replanted the 36 the Sacred Valley (“only” 2,715m). say they want the adventure of a lifetime,
acres of land with endemic plants, In Cusco we stayed at Inkaterra’s you can put your faith in recommending
returning it to cloud forest and in the newest property, La Casona, which has just Peru. And they don’t have to rough it like
process creating the world’s largest 11 suites and started life as a 16th-century Bruce Parry either. ■
orchidarium and a home for 111 species of
butterfly and 18 types of hummingbirds.
An organic vegetable garden project is
underway at Machu Picchu Pueblo, and in
HOW TO BOOK IT
line with Inkaterra’s philosophy to serve A 10-day itinerary in Peru costs
local produce prepared by locals living from £3,895 per person (valid
close by, the goal is to serve 100% organic for a departure until June 16,
produce at the Machu Picchu and La 2010) with Last Frontiers. The
Casona properties. A bear rescue project trip includes staying one night
at Inkaterra Machu Picchu gives guests the in Lima; two at Villas
opportunity to “adopt a bear” as part of Urubamba (part of Andean
the donation programme. Experience); two at Inkaterra's
Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel;
Resilient sales two at Inkaterra’s La Casona
It seems the current economic climate in Cusco; and two nights at
hasn’t dampened Peru’s popularity, with Titilaka (part of Andean
people perhaps even more keen for those Experience). Price includes
experiential trips that will create long- private transfers, most meals ,
lasting memories. “Peru’s popularity is flights with LAN from
relatively unaffected by the UK gloom and Heathrow via Madrid and
Inca Trail permits are just as sold out as internal flights with LAN.
Main picture:
they were last year, which is in no small Tel: 01296 653000,
Sacred Valley
part due to the country’s people and
Clockwise from top:
lastfrontiers.com
natural attractions,” says Edward Paine,
Inkaterra Machu Picchu
Inkaterra: inkaterra.com
chairman of the Latin American Travel
Pueblo Hotel; patio suite
Andean Experiences:
Association. at La Casona; Titilaka andean-experience.com
We weren’t walking the Inca Trail to Hotel on Lake Titicaca
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