it up. Move it back from the withers and rock it a bit to see where the saddle naturally sits. Wither clearance: There should be 2 to 4 fi nger
widths between the inside of the gullet and the with- ers. Make sure the horse has plenty of room to move. Shoulder movement: Find the back edge of your
horse’s scapula, or shoulder blade, and run your fi ngers along the edge of the bone. The horse should have free movement of the shoulder without coming into contact with the bars of the saddle. Some horses are okay with the tree riding on the shoulder blade, but this usually causes discomfort or restricts movement. Bar contact: Run your hand between the horse’s
back and the bars of the saddle, making sure there are no gaps or pressure points. An improper bar angle or width can cause differences in contact with the back that you can feel by an increase of pressure or gaps. Improper bar width or fl are can cause loss of contact or uneven pressure from front to back, or from the top of the bar to the bottom. Skirt fi t: A saddle’s skirt should follow the contour
of a horse’s back and not extend beyond the loins. This can be an issue for shorter-backed horses. Balance: Step back and look at how the saddle sits
on the horse. The cantle, or back of the seat, should not rise higher than the pommel. This may depend on the shape or slope of your horse’s back, but a saddle that angles forward or backward may not have even weight distribution front to back. A saddle should not tip forward when it is cinched. A saddle seat that does not allow the rider to main-
tain a comfortable, correct posture is not good for the rider, either. Too much slope could cause the rider to slide forward. There should be at least 4 inches of clear- ance between your body and the pommel. Without the saddle cinched, put some pressure on
the stirrup. The saddle should not roll off with moder- ate pressure. There may be some give with horses that have fl at withers or a rounder shape, but the saddle should be somewhat secure, even when not cinched.
Signs of a bad fi t Some signs of an ill-fi tting saddle are more obvious
than are others. Keep an eye out for these signs. White patches of hair or scuffed-looking areas:
One of the most evident and long-lasting signs of a bad saddle fi t are areas where pressure has caused trauma to the horse’s skin and hair follicles. This causes the
hairs to grow in white. Scuffed areas can also be a clue that there is more pressure in one spot than in others. In light colored horses, this is not always apparent and can go unnoticed. Dry areas: Even pressure causes even sweat marks
along the area where the bars come into contact with a horse’s back. Dry areas within the sweat marks can be a sign that there is uneven pressure, and most likely, soreness. Sores or sore areas: Sores are an obvious sign that
the saddle is not fi tting properly. However, adding more padding to a saddle that is already too narrow will only cause more problems. If you do not see sores, but suspect the horse has a painful spot, run your fi ngers over the area with light pressure. He will usually tell you if it hurts by fl inching or moving away. Rolling, rocking or tipping: A saddle that does not
have proper contact with your horse’s back can cause the saddle to rock or roll. Check to make sure the width and angle of the bars are right for your horse’s shape. Behavioral problems: Some horses have an incred-
ibly stoic temperament and show no signs of discomfort or soreness. Others may try to tell you something is bothering them by not standing still for mounting, toss- ing their head, fl icking the tail or bucking. Try check- ing your saddle fi t before calling a trainer. It could be as simple as a sore shoulder or more pressure toward the back end of the saddle bars. Check with your local saddle maker or tack shop for
more information on fi tting a saddle. They may allow you to bring your horse with you to the shop. Many reputable makers and shops have very knowledgeable staff and offer a return policy. The only way to be sure that the tooled beauty you have had your eye on will work for you, and your horse, is to try it on. Saddles in one form or another have been around
since the fi rst humans decided to climb on a horse. They have had many shapes and styles, evolving into the very necessary piece of working art they are today. But whether you ended up with one, earned one as a champion or tried out dozens before deciding on one, a good saddle can be worth its weight in gold. Making sure a saddle properly fi ts both horse
and rider can mean the difference in a productive day in the pasture, a successful day in the arena or making sure that you do not end up with something that has been shoved to the back of the tack closet, gathering dust.
tscra.org
November 2015 The Cattleman 85
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