keepers redundant several decades ago but the lighthouse it is still in use today and for visitors it offers some of the best views of the Bay of Fundy. With high winds threatening to inflate my wind-jacket it isn’t the day to linger over the panoramic views or consider activities that include a zip line and a horse riding trail. So we jump in the car and continue our meander along New Brunswick's winding coastline, admiring the attention-grabbing scenery, charming seaside villages and coastal panoramas around every turn in the road. A few miles from Cape Enrage, en


route to Fundy National Park, we stop in the small town of Alma and park close to a harbour where lobster boats are marooned in mud. At the Harbourview restaurant,


where a tour guide-come-singer- guitarist is entertaining her bus load of clients with traditional maritime folk songs, I order a bowl of clam chowder packed with shrimps and


Opposite page clockwise: The Fundy Trail hugs cliff tops above the world's highest tides; a lobster supper – a New Brunswick tradition; Reversing Falls, near Saint John; This page: zip lining at Cape Enrage; whale-watching with Fundy Tide Runners in St. Andrews; Saint John City Market


mussels, and a lobster roll. As we leave the restaurant I drop a dollar coin into a box asking for donations to help solve Alma’s feral cat problem. On the small high street, lobsters are selling for just $5 a pound. We were in the restaurant for little


more than an hour but those same boats are now bobbing around in a harbour filled with water – a reminder of the region's powerful tides. We drive up an escarpment, past spruce, pine and larch trees and rows of blueberry fields, with views of Nova Scotia across the bay, before dropping down into the picturesque town of St Martin’s.


Once a ship-building centre this seaside village and working lobster port is now a prime stop for lunch and souvenirs. Leaving town across its


covered bridge, we pass red cliffs and sea caves and arrive in Fundy National Park.


FUNDY TRAIL The Bay of Fundy is a New Brunswick


Canadian Signature Experience, made up


of three elements: Hopewell Rocks, Cape Enrage, and the Fundy Trail (fundytrailparkway.com).


The Fundy Trail stretches along the coastline and winds inland through thick forest. It is privately operated on land once owned by California newspaper magnate J. Randolph Hearst, who used the trees to nourish his publishing empire. The area became a ghost town in the 1950s, when the lumber industry moved out, but in 1998 the trail opened to visitors.


A second stage was added in 2010 and the final phase of the visitor experience is due to be started this year and completed in 2017.


There are 16kms of paved parkway, footpaths and bicycle routes and various walking trails, with plenty of lookout points.


There are beaches, waterfalls and, for those who want to stay over, the Hearst Lodge. For more


serious hikers, there’s a 41km four-day trail, that follows the Bay of Fundy shoreline.


SAINT JOHN An hour after leaving the Fundy Trail we arrive in Saint John, Canada’s oldest city. A Royal Caribbean cruise ship dominates the pretty port architecture lining Market Square where in the early 19th century shipmakers assembled vessels for the Royal Navy. Cruising is becoming increasingly important for the region. Saint John is a compact and easy- walking city, with plenty of fine restaurants, micro-breweries, quirky shops and art galleries. It’s a short walk from the waterfront to the lively Saint John City Market (sjcitymarket.ca), the oldest continuously operating farmer’s market in North America. Under rafters that resemble the inverted hull of a ship, there’s a fair amount of tourist tat but also local jams, mustards, and freeze-packed seafood. I take a liking to 'dulse', a surprisingly tasty dried seaweed. At the New Brunswick Museum


(nbm-mnb.ca) I learn about New Brunswick's history: Saint John once ruled Canada’s shipbuilding and more than half of the ships that took British migrants to Australian in the early 20th century were made in the city.


Selling Canada • SUMMeR 2014 27


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