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PHOTO 9


PHOTO 10


PHOTO 11


PHOTO 12


for finishing (Photo 7). In this case, since the strength comes from the oversized inner layer of balsa sandwiched to the skins, a single layer of finishing glass is all that is needed.


The tip tanks now needed to be repaired, and since they are made of fiberglass, bits could be patched together with tape and CA to create parts, which could then be fit to- gether. Since both the front and rear exten- sions were broken off, and needed to be strong—the airplane is frequently picked up by the tips—the front “part” was tacked into place with CA, then strips of 6-ounce fiber- glass were placed from the rear to wrap around the circumference of the tank creat- ing a strong structure within a structure (Photo 8).


The aft portion of the broken tank now needed to be attached, but since access to the inside would not be possible after the edges were joined, strips of 1


⁄32 -inch plywood


were soaked and formed to the inside curva- ture of the tank, then epoxied in place (Pho- to 9). Now, the broken piece could be slid into place and secured with epoxy as well (Photo 10).


Following the usual feathering and filling, a layer of Plasticoat T-237 (lacquer based)


FLYING MODELS


white primer (which was almost a perfect color match with the underlying white gel coat) was sprayed and sanded, which al- lowed for a lightweight and easily matched layer of yellow base paint and a gloss clear coat to be applied (Photos 11 & 12). This repair continues to be secure and


work, since it is now almost six years old, and the airplane continues to be flown every chance I get.


While this is not the only way to fix this problem, its simplicity has been working well and I hope it will stimulate your thought processes, if needed.


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