With the fuselage covered, carefully cut at the crease line left by the blue tape mask and remove (above left) to allow the perfect glue joint between the
Flying The plans show the recommended first
flight balance point. I didn’t have to add any ballast to hit that point (luck, not skill!) but I do have to have the 200 mAh 2S battery fully forward in the front compartment. For the first flight or two, it might be good to have a helper launch the plane for you. It doesn’t need to be thrown, as the motor has plenty of pull and there is a lot of wing area and little weight. I start with the throttle about half-way up and lightly toss the plane, much as I’d do with a small rubber freeflight model. Advancing the throttle and pulling back slightly gives a nice climb, and from there I trim for fast level flight. After a little familiarization, get the plane up to about 100 feet and cut the throttle. Use the elevator to control the airspeed, and note how slow the plane needs to be to stall. It’s pretty slow! I could never get my original-tail Shrikes to stall this way, but with the Shrike 180, you can. Practice a few passes without landing just to get a feeling for how it handles at low speed. When you finally set it down, do it in a grassy area rather than a paved runway.
fuselage and the wing. The Spektrum 2.3-gram linear servo (above right) fits into a pocket built into each wing panel.
I have found that with AS3X-equipped models, they seem to perform a little better
inch is usually enough. This makes sense, since it gives the receiver more sensi- tivity to react quickly to environmental dis- turbances. It is advised however to fly the Shrike 180 with the balance as shown on the plans before you begin experimenting.
if I move the balance back a little bit— 1
⁄8 to 1 ⁄4
Equipment Comments: My Shrike 180s have all been controlled by AR6400NBLs pulled from a micro Stryker and AS6410s pulled from E-flite MiG-15s. For both re- ceivers I used the A2030L 2.3-gram linear
servos, and I always used the 3000Kv Stryker motor and prop. The GWS and APC 4-inch props are great as well. To me, the AS6410’s AS3X stabilization was well worth it, but I learned that you can’t fly with a damaged or unbalanced prop. Even though the Shrike only uses two axes, the AS3X def- initely helps the handling. The MiG-15 sen- sor gain configuration was perfect as well. I created a default model in my DX18, then set the rates as seen in the box at right.
These were good for a first flight. The Expo was later reduced to 12% on the ailerons and 0% on the elevator. I needed to reverse all servos, which I did at the servo using the small reversing pigtail that comes with each A2030L servo (all three channels needed it). I didn’t need to change anything in the re- ceiver itself.
I’d like to say a big thank you to Joe Be- shar for this wonderful design. It has given me a lot of fun, as it has multitudes of oth- ers. Way to go!
Control Settings
Ailerons: Dual Rates:
Expo:
Elevator: Dual Rates:
Expo:
85% 75% 20% 20%
100% 80% 20% 20%
Two Shrike 180sgather at the field (above left). Associate Editor, Jim Wiggin, got in on the action and built the white and orange Shrike 180just left of Andy’s. The Navy decals are from a ParkZone T-28. Consider the Shrikeas the perfect
FLYING MODELS
club activity. It builds fast and flies great both indoors and outdoors. In the air (above right) the little Shrike flies like a larger model thanks to the AS3X stabilization. Even in choppy winds the Shrikeis stable with no bad habits.
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