Shrike 180
Like the elevator, the ailerons (above left) can be solid or built up. The horizontal stabilizer should end up flush with the trailing edge of the wing.
sand the rear spar to match the airfoil of the ribs, matching the servo pocket to the contour of the wing. Round the LE at this time as well. Next, add the oversize wing tips, taking care to make sure they’re on straight. When dry, round them and contour them to match the wing. You will need to taper them at the TE some to match the ailerons.
-inch scrap to make the slot snug for when the fins are inserted. There is a guide on the plans showing a gauge to construct the fins angle out properly. Round the an- gled LE of the stab, not the part against the wing! Now round the fin LE, TE, and tip. Ailerons and elevator: The control sur- faces can either be built up from 1
⁄8 ⁄32 -inch
sheet and some scraps, or sanded down from thicker wood. The photos show the built-up method and can be used as a guide. Be sure you have included some solid surface for the control horns to mount to and sand them to match the wings.
Now that all the parts are made, you can
The fins and stab are built from sticks right on the plans. Use a relatively hard piece for the main spars. This piece needs to be very straight to prevent warps over time. When building the stabs, note that there are two parallel pieces on either side which cre- ate a slot for the fins to plug in. I use a piece of 1
Carefully dry fit the assembly to the fuselage (above right) and mark the distance of the gap. The excess will be cut from the rear of the fuselage.
test fit. Make sure the fins fit into the stab. Using the wing joiners, slide both wings onto the fuselage. Slide the stab on, noting that the fuselage is probably a little longer than it needs to be. Trim the fuselage off so that the stab TE spar is flush against the end of the fuse. Basically, you adjust the length of the fuselage so that the LE of the stab is against the TE spar of the wing, and the TE spar of the stab is against the end of the fuselage. See the photos for reference. Covering: I like to cover the cowl and
hatch first followed by the fuselage. Cover the parts where the blue tape is still at- tached, covering right over them. Seal the covering down well. Now, carefully slice the covering, using the blue tape as a guide. This will leave you a large area for attaching the wing and tail firmly, allowing the glue to have a solid attachment point. Cover the re- maining items, but do not shrink anything except the fins. Leave about 1
⁄4 –3 ⁄8 inch of ex-
cess covering along the TE of the wing. This will transition to the stab and give a much better appearance.
Final Assembly
The wings can be slid into place on the joiners and glued to the sides of the fuselage. Attach the horizontal tail surfaces, taking
care to fit them snugly and evenly against the wing. At this point you can shrink the covering on the wings and tail. Seal down the wing and tail overlap with an iron, and around the perimeter of the servo pockets on the top of the wings. Attach the control sur- faces, preferably using the covering as the hinge line on top. Apply a thin strip of cover- ing into the V from the bottom as well. Mount the aileron servos on 1
⁄8 -inch square
balsa rails inside the pockets you built earli- er. The elevator servo mounts on rails too, running across the fuselage in the area be- tween formers F2 and F3.
The control horns are DuBro #916, but you could also substitute small ply ones as well. I used the hole one in from the tip of the horn, as this gives great aerobatics and good stability with the AS3X system using the MiG-15 gains.
The pushrods are made from two pieces of .025-inch to .032-inch wire with Z bends in each end. They are joined using a 3
⁄4 -inch
length of small heat shrink. This will allow you to adjust them easily, then use CA to lock them in place.
Install the vertical fins last, so they aren’t in the way with the earlier steps. Be sure they are angled evenly, and apply a few drops of CA.
The Shrike 180assembled and sanded (above left) is ready for covering. Use a lightweight covering film designed for lighter models. Bare bones with the
22
motor installed, the Shrike 180 comes in at a very manageable weight of 1.6 ounces (above right).
NOVEMBER 2013
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