History springs to life in England’s south-central counties, where the hit Downton Abbey TV series is fi lmed.
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The Saloon gallery in Highclere Castle.
By Laurel Kallenbach
Star-struck, my heart fl uttering with excitement, I promenade across a green lawn toward the object of my affection—Highclere Castle, an hour-and-a-half drive southwest of London. This elegant mansion, framed by 250-year-old Cedars of Lebanon on a 5,000-acre estate, is the real star of the PBS drama Downton Abbey. Though characters on the show come and go, Highclere never abandons her well- bred role—one this English country manor has played for centuries. While fi ctional Downton Abbey is home to TV’s blue-blooded Granthams and
their servants, Highclere Castle shelters the Eighth Earl of Carnarvon and his wife, Countess Fiona. Unlike the TV show, this morning there’s no phalanx of tuxedo-clad foot-
men to greet my husband, Ken, and me as we walk through Highclere’s carved double doors and into the entrance hall. Nothing has prepared me for the sheer spectacle of marble pillars and soaring arches, of chandeliers and heraldic shields—although I’ve watched every Downton Abbey episode twice over. Even if I’d never seen the series, Highclere Castle’s real-life history would be as
spellbinding as its television counterpart. In 1895, a young woman named Almina, daughter of über-wealthy Alfred de
Rothschild, married the cash-strapped Fifth Earl of Carnarvon. Her generous dowry funded many improvements at Highclere, including electricity and run- ning water. During World War I, Almina donned a nurse’s uniform and trans- formed Highclere Castle into a convalescent hospital for wounded offi cers—as did the Downton Abbey ladies. But real-life history is even juicier: Almina’s husband, Lord Carnarvon, fi nanced
the discovery of King Tut’s tomb in 1922 and helped archaeologist Howard Carter excavate its world-famous treasures. Less than fi ve months after opening the tomb, Carnarvon died, fueling “curse of the pharaoh” rumors. In reality, he nicked a mosquito bite on his face while shaving and developed blood poisoning. Weakened, he died of pneumonia.
Ready for her close-up
Originally built as a grand Georgian house, Highclere got a facelift in the mid-1800s. Towers and spires made the mansion appear less boxy. Indoors, Lady Almina redecorated a number of rooms, completing the lavish look we see on Downton Abbey. As Ken and I follow the visitor queue from room to
room, staff members answer questions about the home’s furnishings, pointing out embroidered wall panels depict- ing animals and birds, a desk that belonged to Napoleon, and secret cupboards that once hid Egyptian antiquities. Modern photos remind us that this is still a private home,
EnCompassMag.com EnCompass May/June 2013 39
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