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when Old Faithful goes off. Simply step out on the porch and there it is! Make your dinner res- ervations when you reserve your room if you want to eat before 9 p.m. For those looking for a room to soothe the


soul removed from the action around Old Faithful, the butter-yellow and white Colonial Revival façade of Lake Yellowstone Hotel beck- ons an attitude adjustment. Lake Yellowstone Hotel stands along the


northern shore of what was once a meeting place for Indians, trappers, and mountain men. It served stagecoach guests brought to Yellowstone by the Northern Pacifi c Railroad. Robert Reamer, architect of the Old Faithful Inn, added colonial touches, such as false balconies and imposing Ionic columns, and in a later renovation, a dining room, an extended porte- cochere, and a sunroom. Visitors this summer are in for a treat. In


addition to structural and seismic upgrades, the dining and sunroom along with 43 of the guest rooms have been renovated to the hotel’s origi- nal Colonial Revival style. Either exit Yellowstone at the West Entrance


via U.S. 191 and head north, or if you have not seen Mammoth Hot Springs (a must stop), exit at Gardiner via U.S. 89. Both routes will hook up to I-90 as you head to Missoula, Mont., for another


very long day’s drive to Glacier National Park. Past Missoula, catch U.S. 93 north to


Kalispell. The drive along Flathead Lake offers a nice introduction to the glories of forthcoming Glacier. If it’s cherry season, stop at one of the dozens of roadside stands and load up on pit fruit. Heading west from Kalispell, take MT-40 then U.S. 2 to West Glacier. This, for all practical purposes, is where the story of Glacier National Park began. Great Northern Railway baron James J.


Hill and his son Louis quietly lobbied for the creation of Montana’s Glacier National Park. Naturalists, writers, and conservationists ral- lied for a park, and when it was established in 1910 as America’s fourth national park, it was the fi nancial backing of the Great Northern that helped create the infrastructure. With their rail line running through the majes-


tic mountain landscape, Louis Hill bet on poten- tial passenger travel to make the construction of a series of lodges and chalets pay off. The intimate Belton Chalet near the West


Glacier park entrance, and the vast Glacier Park Lodge at the East Glacier Park entrance, book- end the southern portion of the park. Louis Hill, a student of Swiss architecture,


wanted to recreate the look of a lodge in the Swiss Alps. Built in 1910, the property fell into


The lobby of the Old Faithful Inn in Yellowstone National Park.


36 EnCompass May/June 2013


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© Danita Delimont/Alamy


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