Beauty - Cosmeceutical Skin Care . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . the beautyscience of
As skin specialists, I’m sure you will have come across the term ‘Cosmeceuticals’ but while many of you are embracing these forward- thinking products, there are just as many who are still sitting on the fence, but take heed if you’re not offering these treatments to your clients yet you can be sure that a competitor will.
“The days of going to a beautician for a relaxing cleanse, steam, massage and mask are over as savvy clients now want measureable, visible results from their treatment with little or no downtime,” explains Mariga Sheedy of Skin Essentials Ltd.
“With current cutting-edge technology, powerful botanicals and new ingredients, today's skin care specialist is ideally placed to bridge the gap between old style cosmetic treatments and the surgeon's knife or prescription pad,” she adds.
What are
Cosmeceuticals? “Cosmeceuticals are a combination of cosmetics and pharmaceutical ingredients which use a blend of one or more 'active ingredient' such as peptides, antioxidants, acids, and / or growth factors,” explains Emma Dunne, Lead Educator for Eve Taylor Skincare.
“One popular and proven active ingredient found in Cosmeceuticals, targeted for more Acne prone skin is Salicylic Acid which is found in Willow Bark,” Emma adds. “Salicylic Acid is especially helpful in treating Acne because of its ability to penetrate the follicle. It encourages the shedding of dead skin cells from within the follicle, helping keep the pores clear of cellular debris. In this way, it reduces the number of pore blockages and breakouts on the skin.”
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Of course, Salicylic Acid isn’t the only active ingredient available and when we cross the boundary into pharmaceutical ingredients, it’s imperative that you understand what you’re dealing with before you use it on your clients’ skin. “Many professional Cosmeceutical treatments are based on skin peeling using AHAs, BHAs, TCA and phenol peels, and it is vitally important to know exactly how and when each should be used so be sure that your cosmeceutical skin care range comes with comprehensive training and on-going backup and advice services,” urges Mariga.
What do they treat?
“The signs of ageing – most notably lines and wrinkles, but also hyper- pigmented blemishes – are the key concerns addressed,” explains Tracy Tamaris, Training Director at the International Institute for Anti-Ageing (iiaa), UK and Ireland distributor of Environ Skin Care.
“[In addition] there are now many Cosmeceutical ingredients that help to build collagen, firm and smooth lined skin. Scarring can be alleviated to a degree but results are better when enhanced penetration techniques such as sonophoresis and micro- needling are used in combination with Cosmeceuticals,” Tracy adds.
Are they really necessary for my
salon? As with any treatment regimen it really depends on the individual client’s needs, but unless your salon only offers 100% organic treatments they certainly shouldn’t be overlooked.
“Cosmeceuticals have revolutionised the skin care industry to its deepest core. All therapists want to offer their clients the very best and treat their skin concerns with products that will give their clients the results they desire. Cosmeceuticals achieve these results through delivering the active ingredients to the deeper layers of the skin, which normal cosmetic products cannot achieve,” says Danielle Randall of Nimue.
Emma Dunne agrees: “A client who feels they require more from their current skin care may benefit from using a Cosmeceutical within their daily skin care regime as these ingredients are target treatments – it would mean the client will have to pay more for this product however they should see quicker results over a shorter period of time.”
How do I market
these to my clients? Of course, it’s not just therapists who can be reluctant to try something new; some of your clients may be cautious to alter their tried and tested regimes – but if their current regimes just aren’t up to scratch it’s your job to introduce them to something else.
“Salons can encourage clients to switch their skin care regime by creating a trusting relationship with their client. Your clients have come to you for your professional opinion, so give it to them!” says Lydia Sarfati, Repêchage CEO and Founder.
“Use your specialised knowledge of skin care to listen to your clients’ concerns, to do a thorough skin analysis and to recommend an at- home care program. If you are doing this correctly, you are going to provide your clients with fantastic results and they will forever love you, and trust you for it,” she adds.
Finally, to help make the transition to Cosmeceuticals even easier, Tracy suggests you ensure these products have their due prominence in your salon with point of sale displays, client testimonies, and before and after images appearing in your reception area, so that potential clients can see the benefits for themselves.
If you’ve decided to branch out into Cosmeceuticals, take a look at a selection of products and treatments on offer...
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