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layers, the size, and thereby maturation index of the individual corneocytes, together with the swelling characteristics of the corneocytes. Filaggrin can influence skin barrier function in two
ways. If less is produced then the necessary compaction of keratinocytes into corneocytes will not proceed effectively, leading to smaller more immature corneocytes. Equally, there will be less NMF produced if there is less filaggrin manufactured, which will influence the swelling characteristics of the corneocytes. Less NMF will effectively lead to less corneocytes being matured effectively in the stratum corneum. Therefore, with less filaggrin and filaggrin‑derived NMF, the tortuosity of the stratum corneum and corneocytes maturation mechanisms will be impacted negatively for optimal skin barrier formation. Indeed, subjects with less NMF (and thereby less filaggrin) have impaired barrier function (i.e. atopic dermatitis). However, the most compelling evidence for the role of
filaggrin and its associated NMF in skin barrier function come from genetically‑determined loss‑of‑function polymorphisms in the filaggrin gene where increased TEWL has been measured relative to non‑carriers of the filaggrin mutations (38). Thus, the effect of dermonutrition increasing stratum corneum NMF, and thereby filaggrin, together with improved skin barrier function are likely to be interlinked and further support the effect of the
ingredients on the epidermal differentiation process observed at the in vitro level.
Declaration of interest E. Krahn-Bertil (EKB), F. Hazane- puch (FHp), and T. Lassel were all employees of Danone research, the manufacturer of the dairy product under review in this article at the time of the study.
EKB is now at L’Oreal, paris, France. FHp is now at CHU-Grenoble, France.
Dr A Rawlings was a consultant to Danone research at the time of the study.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS The authors thank Epistem, U.K., for performing the monolayer culture experiments and Charlotte Lequeux & Odile Damour at Banque de Tissus et Cellules, Hôpital Edouard Herriot, Hospices Civils de Lyon, Lyon, France, for performing the organotypic culture experiments. The authors wish to declare that the specific studies described in the above article have not been separately written up or published. This article is a slightly edited version of a book
chapter featuring in Skin Moisutrization, 2nd edition, edited by Anthony V. Rawlings and James J. Leyden . The book is available from Informa Healthcare at
www.informahealthcare.com.
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