articLe | DERMONUTRITION | PCA + UCA + Gly, His, Pro, Ser amount Stratum corneum 150 Surface – 4µg
150 100
Surface – 4μm 100 Control Epidermis 400 Surface – 8μm Surface – 8µg
400 300
Surface – 8µg Dermis
300 200
Control
PCA + UCA + Gly, His, Pro, Ser amount 16 12
200 Control +11.44 8 4 0 Control Group 1 the year and in aged skin (22). It is highly unlikely that a
deficiency of linoleic acid occurs in normal subjects as they age or in the winter months of the year (as a percentage of fasting plasma lipids, LA constitutes 15.6% of free fatty acids, 19.54% of triglycerides, 22.94% of phospholipids, and 49.82% cholesterol esters (23)), and more likely a diminution of epidermal differentiation is occurring in these subjects. Indeed, even topical application of differentiation agents such as lactic acid alone induces the skin to make more ceramide‑1 linoleate together with other ceramides generally to improve epidermal barrier function (24). There is plenty of reserve of LA in normal subjects, either in the blood or in the skin itself, but the skin is not using it optimally. Therefore, agents that will influence the differentiation process will allow optimal use of linoleic acid and make a better barrier. Gamma‑linolenic acid (GLA; 18:3(n‑6)) is also present
in skin ceramides (25). However, only very small quantities of GLA are present in straum corneum ceramides (26). Much higher quantities are found in
40 ❚ May 2011 |
prime-journal.com Group 2
epidermal ceramides, suggesting that further metabolism of GLA in epidermal ceramides together with other lipids is essential for epidermal differentiation. Naturally, studies on EFAD animals have demonstrated that LA is essential for repairing the impaired barrier function in such conditions (27). However, GLA induces skin barrier repair faster than that of LA by at least one day, again implying that further metabolites of GLA are important for the epidermal differentiation process (9). These may be dihomo‑gamma‑linolenic acid (DGLA; 20:3(n‑6)) or 15‑hydroxy‑eicosatrienoic acid (15-HETrE). The 1‑series of prostaglandins are important anti‑inflammatory lipids that are also derived from GLA, but they do not directly induce barrier repair in EFAD models (27). The average diet contains approximately 11.7 g of omega‑6 fatty acids per day (mean daily intake of linoleic acid: 10.6 g men and 8.1 g women) (28). As assessed from reported blood concentrations of GLA, the content of GLA in the diet, or via its conversion
+11.97 +4.18
Surface – 4µg Surface – 8µg
Group 1 Group 2
Figure 6 Raman results of a study performed on 60 women to determine the NMF-level in different depths of their stratum corneum
Group 1 Group 2
Baseline 12 Weeks
Baseline 12 Weeks
Group 1 Group 2 Control Group 1 Group 2
PCA + UCA + Gly, His, Pro, Ser amount 200
Surface – 4µg PCA + UCA + Gly, His, Pro, Ser amount 200
Baseline 12 Weeks
Baseline 12 Weeks
% improvement of GHPS + PCA + UCA
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