| SKin Care ProDuCTS | praCTiCe managemenT
and adapalene, tretinoin, and tazarotene for acne or photoageing, all require complementary topical care to protect from ultraviolet light and epidermal barrier disruption. if a dermatologist wants to offer skin
care products for sale out of their office, there are common categories of products that would likely be included. Photoprotective products, antioxidants, collagen-stimulating products, pigment lightening, exfoliants, area-specific products, cleansers, and barrier- restoratives would be good categories to offer. many products do multi-tasking such as retinol, which is both pigment lightening and collagen stimulating, and alpha hydroxy acids which exfoliate, thereby improving acne as well as dyschromia. Photoprotection creams, or sunscreens,
are the most important recommendation that dermatologists can make to patients. rosacea, skin cancers, melasma, photoageing, and light-sensitive dermatoses like polymorphic light eruption, are just some of the medical conditions needing regular sunscreen use. it is critical that pulsed light, peel, and laser patients use sun protection before procedures to begin the process of correction, and after the procedure to prevent post-inflammatory hyper- pigmentation immediately post- procedure and consistently over time to maintain the benefit of these paid-out-of- pocket and costly cosmetic procedures. The benefits of using retinoids and hydroquinone both pre- and post- treatment have been proven to enhance results and these products can irritate the skin, so adequate sun protection enhances their tolerability. much progress has been made recently in improvement of broad spectrum sunscreens, especially with improved protection from ultraviolet a rays and improvement in photo-stability of final product formulations. antioxidants purportedly complex
free radicals that have various deleterious effects on the skin. Free radicals crosslink collagen and accelerate its breakdown. it would make sense to use this product class to protect from increases of matrix metallo- proteinase i (mmP-1, collagenase) and sunburn cell formation that result from ultraviolet light exposure. ultraviolet radiation (uVr) also causes nuclear factor
prime-journal.com | March 2011
kappa enhances of activated B cells (nK–kß) activation and the production of pro-inflammatory mediators (2). anti- oxidants have anti- inflammatory actions against these mediators and may protect against Dna damage. Table 1 lists some of the most popular antioxidant ingredients found in mainstream product lines. Since no sun protection cream can block all ultraviolet light, the use of antioxidants in the morning to complement the protective benefits of sunscreens, would be a reasonable recommendation to patients. Collagen-stimulating products are
many products do multi-tasking such as
retinol, which is both pigment lightening and collagen stimulating, and alpha hydroxy acids which exfoliate, thereby improving acne as well as dyschromia.
typically recommended for older skin in which wrinkles and fine lines are the primary concern. Table 1 lists some of the ingredients with cosmeceutical studies documenting in vitro or in vivo increases of collagen. These increases in collagen are the result of fibroblast stimulation(3). Besides collagen, other components of the dermis, such as elastin and glycosaminoglycans are produced by fibroblasts. improvement in skin texture
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