| FUTURISTIC APPROACHES TO SKIN CARE | arTicle
Figure 1 Visible effect of oil–water emulsion skin care product containing yeast biopeptides SIRT1 activator after eight weeks of once-daily skin treatment (nasolabial region): (A) before treatment; (B) after treatment
improvements in fine lines and
wrinkles, hydration, pigmented spot color intensity, complexion radiance, firmness, complexion homogeneity, and texture were apparent at the end of the study.
markers” (Table 1) involved in wrinkle formation, irregular
pigmentation, dry skin, loss of firmness, and other signs of ageing (25). The skin care product of this study is formulated to
reduce wrinkles, dark spots, loss of firmness, and loss of radiance. It contains an extract of seeds of Aframomum angustifolium (a plant found in Madagascar), nine anti- ageing ingredients that reverse the visible signs of photoageing by interacting with the 20 youth markers, and Kluyveromyces biopeptides that increase sirtuin expression in the ARI cells (25). Expression of the SIRT1 gene was evaluated by
immunofluorescence, Western blot analysis, and cytometric studies of skin cells. Preliminary experiments showed that SIRT1 expression could be increased in cultured human fibroblasts by adding biopeptides of the yeast Kluyveromyces (25) to the culture medium. This finding is important because fibroblasts are associated with ageing-related loss of biomechanical properties of human skin. When the biopeptide activators were added, SIRT1 expression was increased by 176% over control cultures, suggesting that human fibroblasts responded to the yeast biopeptides. Other experiments showed that SIRT1 expression also increased (compared to untreated controls) in epidermal cells enriched with biopeptide. A third line of evidence emerged when cultured human fibroblasts irradiated with UV-B energy were treated with the same biopeptide, resulting in reduced degradation of DNA. This suggested that maintenance of nuclear chromatin had increased and that the integrity of the genetic information in the nucleus had increased. Collectively these results showed conclusively that the yeast biopeptide had stimulated SIRT1 expression in human skin cells (25). The next step was to evaluate SIRT1 expression in normal
human skin cells when a skin care formulation containing the same yeast biopeptide (1% in an oil–water emulsion) was applied once daily to the faces and necks of 33 women (aged 37–64 years) for four weeks. Cellular integrity and ageing were monitored by measuring DNA fragmentation
and the activity of beta galactosidase, a marker of senescence. Reductions in cell senescence (as shown by decreases in beta galactosidase activity) and UV-induced DNA fragmentation were observed. Using a scale of 1 to 9, dermatologists graded fine lines and wrinkles, hydration, pigment colour intensity, complexion radiance, skin density, firmness, complexion homogeneity, and texture of the skin before and after the first application and again after four weeks of use. Objective data of age-related changes in the extent and intensity of skin imperfections were obtained by analyzing numerized pictures of faces taken by a patented Pixel Skin device (34). Improvements in fine lines and wrinkles, hydration, pigmented spot color intensity, complexion radiance, firmness, complexion homogeneity, and texture were apparent at the end of the study. Pixel data showed significant reductions in skin surface imperfections (–30.4%). Subjects continued to apply product daily for an
additional four weeks. The eight-week results on the nasolabial fold on one patient are shown in Figure 1.
Conclusions The yeast Kluyveromyces biopeptides activate SIRT1 expression in human skin cells and improve DNA resistance and senescence. A formulation enriched with these same biopeptides improves multiple signs of skin ageing.
Table 1 Youth markers found in ARI
Aquaporine-3 Chondroitin 4S Collagen (types I, III, IV, VII) Cytokeratin 1 Elastic fibers Fibrillin Hyaluronic acid Integrin (Beta 1 and Beta 4)
Laminin (Type I) Matrix metalloproteinase 1 and 9 P63/p73 genes Platelet-derived growth factor
Tissue inhibitor of metalloproteinases 1 Tocopherol Tyrosinase
Source: From Ref. 25
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