This page contains a Flash digital edition of a book.
| FUTURISTIC APPROACHES TO SKIN CARE | arTicle References


1. Watt FM. Epidermal stem cells: markers, patterning and the control of stem cell fate. Philos Trans R Soc Lond B Biol Sci. 1998 353: 831–7.


2. Lajtha LG. Stem cell concepts. Differentiation. 1979 14: 23–34.


3. Zouboulis CC, Adjaye J, Akamatsu H, Moe-Behrens G, Niemann C. Human skin stem cells and the ageing process. Exp Gerontol. 2008 43: 986–97.


4. Braun KM, Prowse DM. Distinct epidermal stem cell compartments are maintained by independent niche microenvironments. Stem Cell Rev. 2006 2: 221–31.


5. Blanpain C, Fuchs E. Epidermal homeostasis: a balancing act of stem cells in the skin. Nat Rev Mol Cell Biol. 2009 10: 207–17.


6. Rangarajan A, Talora C, Okuyama R. et al. Notch signaling is a direct determinant of keratinocyte growth arrest and entry into differentiation. EMBO J. 2001 20: 3427–36.


7. Fuchs E, Horsley V. More than one way to skin. Genes Dev. 2008 22: 976–85.


8. Allenspach EJ, Maillard I, Aster JC, Pear WS. Notch signaling in cancer. Cancer Biol Ther. 2002 1: 466–76.


9. Nguyen BC, Lefort K, Mandinova A. et al. Cross-regulation between Notch and p63 in keratinocyte commitment to differentiation. Genes Dev. 2006 20: 1028–42.


10. Weng AP, Aster JC. Multiple niches for


Notch in cancer: context is everything. Curr Opin Genet Dev. 2004 14: 48–54.


11. Watt FM, Estrach S, Ambler CA. Epidermal Notch signalling: differentiation, cancer and adhesion. Curr Opin Cell Biol. 2008 20: 171–9.


12. Yang A, Kaghad M, Caput D, McKeon F. On


the shoulders of giants: p63, p73 and the rise of p53. Trends Genet. 2002 18: 90–5.


13. Pellegrini G, Dellambra E, Golisano O. et al. p63 identifies keratinocyte stem cells. Proc Natl Acad Sci USA. 2001 98: 3156–61.


14. Koster MI, Kim S, Mills AA, DeMayo FJ, Roop DR. p63 is the molecular switch for initiation of an epithelial stratification program. Genes Dev. 2004 18: 126–31.


15. McCullough JL, Kelly KM. Prevention and


treatment of skin ageing. Ann N Y Acad Sci. 2006 1067: 323–31.


16. Grove GL, Kligman AM. Age-associated


changes in human epidermal cell renewal. J Gerontol. 1983 38: 137–42.


17. Legg J, Jensen UB, Broad S, Leigh I, Watt


FM. Role of melanoma chondroitin sulphate proteoglycan in patterning stem cells in human interfollicular epidermis. Development. 2003 130: 6049–63.


18. Jensen KB, Watt FM. Single-cell expression profiling of human epidermal stem and


transit-amplifying cells: Lrig1 is a regulator of stem cell quiescence. Proc Natl Acad Sci USA. 2006 103: 11958–63.


19. Varani J, Schuger L, Dame MK. et al.


Reduced fibroblast interaction with intact collagen as a mechanism for depressed collagen synthesis in photodamaged skin. J Invest Dermatol. 2004 122: 1471–9.


20. Yamaguchi Y, Takahashi K, Zmudzka BZ. et


al. Human skin responses to UV radiation: pigment in the upper epidermis protects against DNA damage in the lower epidermis and facilitates apoptosis. FASEB J. 2006 20: 1486–8.


21. Conboy IM, Conboy MJ, Wagers AJ. et al. Rejuvenation of aged progenitor cells by exposure to a young systemic environment. Nature. 2005 433: 760–4.


22. Sharpless NE, DePinho RA. How stem cells


age and why this makes us grow old. Nat Rev Mol Cell Biol. 2007 8: 703–13.


23. Barrandon Y, Green H. Three clonal types of keratinocyte with different capacities for multiplication. Proc Natl Acad Sci USA. 1987 84: 2302–6.


24. Farris PK. A review of the science behind the claims. Cosmetic Dermatol. 2003 16: 59–70.


25. Moreau M, Neveu M, StÉphan S. et al.


Enhancing cell longevity for cosmetic application: a complementary approach. J Drugs Dermatol. 2007 6(Suppl): s14–19.


26. Rocquet C, BontÉ F. Molecular aspects of skin ageing: recent data. Acta Dermatoven APA. 2002 3: 71–94.


27. Nizard C, Noblesse E, Boisde C. et al. Heat


shock protein 47 expression in aged human fibroblast: modulation by Salix alba extract. Ann N Y Acad Sci. 2004 1019: 223–7.


28. Bulteau AL, Moreau M, Saunois A, Nizard C, Friguet B. Algae extract-mediated stimulation and protection of proteasome activity within human keratinocytes exposed to UVA and UVB irradiation. Antioxid Redox Signal. 2006 8: 136–143.


29. Smith BC, Denu JM. SIRT2 protein


deacetylases: evidence for chemical intermediates and functions of a conserved histidine. Biochemistry. 2006 45: 272–82.


30. Blander G, Garentee L. The Sir2 family of


protein deacetylase. Annu Rev Biochem. 2004 73: 417–35.


31. Sinclair DA, Guarente L. Unlocking the secrets of longevity genes. Sci Am. 2006 294: 48–51. 54–7.


32. Bellizzi D, Rose G, Cavalcante P. et al. A


novel VNTR enhancer within the SIRT3 gene, a human homologue of SIRT2, is associated with survival at oldest ages. Genomics. 2005 85: 258–63.


33. Anastasiou D, Krek W. SIRT1: linking adaptive cellular responses to ageing- associated changes in organismal physiology. Physiology (Bethesda). 2006 21: 404–10.


34. Stephan S, Neveu M, Schnebert S, Pelle de


Queral D. inventors. LVMH Recherche. Method and apparatus for characterizing the imperfections of skin and method of assessing the anti-ageing effect of a cosmetic product. US Patent pending 11/543,587 Oct 4, 2006.


35. Talbourdet S, Lazou K, Bonnet-Duquennoy


M. et al. Modulation of gene expression as a new skin anti-ageing strategy. J Drugs Dermatol. 2007 6(Suppl): s25–33.


36. Bonnet-Duquennoy M, Bosset S, Chalon A.


et al. Real time quantitative RT-PCR: a new approach for studying expression of markers for photo-ageing in human skin. In: . Presented at the 32nd Annual Meeting of the European Society for Dermatological Research. September 19–21 2002, Geneva, Switzerland.


37. Goldman MP, Baca PA, Leis Hoff G, Hexsel


D, Angelini F. Cellulite: Pathophysiology and Treatment. New York: Taylor and Francis, 2006.


38. Kligman AM, Pagnoni A, Stoudemayer T. Topical retinol improves cellulite. J Dermatol Treatment. 1999 10: 119–25.


39. Kurlandsky SB, Xiao J-H, Duell EA,


Voorhees JJ, Fisher GJ. Biological activity of all-trans retinol requires metabolic conversion to all-trans retinoic acid and is mediated through activation of nuclear retinoid receptors in human keratinocytes. J Biol Chem. 1994 269: 32821–7.


40. Kang S, Duell EA, Fisher GJ. et al.


Application of retinol to human skin in vivo induces epidermal hyperplasia and cellular retinoid binding proteins characteristic of retinoic acid but without measurable retinoic acid levels or irritation. J Invest Dermatol. 1995 105: 549–56.


41. Duell EA, Kang S, Voorhees JJ. Unoccluded retinol penetrates human skin in vivo more effectively than unoccluded retinyl palmitate or retinoic acid. J Invest Dermatol. 1997 109: 301–5.


42. Garcia E, Lacasa D, Agli B, Giudicelli Y.


Antiadipogenic properties of retinol in primary cultured differentiating human adipocyte precursor cells. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2000 22: 95–103.


43. Schwartz E, Cruickshank FA, Mezick JA,


Kligman LH. Topical all-trans retinoic acid stimulates collagen synthesis in vivo. J Invest Dermatol. 1991 96: 975–8.


44. Kligman AM, Grove GL, Hirose R, Leyden JJ. Topical tretinoin for photoaged skin. J Am Acad Dermatol. 1986 15: 836–59.


45. Rossi ABR. Cellulite: a review. Eur Acad .


of free fatty acids to coffee and caffeine. Metabolism. 1968 17: 702–7.


47. Wertheimer E, Shafrir E. Influence of


Dermatol Venereol. 2000 14: 251–62. 46 Bellet S, Kershbaum A, Finck EM. Response


hormones on adipose tissue as a center on fat metabolism. Recent Progr Hormone Res. 1960 16: 467–95.


48. Levi L. The effect of coffee on the function 49. Bellet S, Roman L, DeCastro O, Kim KE,


Kerschbaum A. Effect of coffee ingestion on catecholamine release. Metabolism. 1969 18: 288–91.


50. Coluturier C, Janvier B, Girlich D, Bereziat


G, Andreani-Mangeney M. Effects of caffeine on lipoprotein lipase gene expression during the adipocyte differentiation process. Lipids. 1998 33: 455–60.


51. Facino RM, Carini M, Stefani R, Aldiniand G,


Saibene L. Anti-elastase and anti- hyaluronidase activities of saponins and sapogenins from Hedera helix, Aesculus hippocastanum, and Ruscus aculeatus: factors contributing to their efficacy in the treatment of venous insufficiency. Arch Pharm. 1995 328: 720–4.


52. Heinrich M, Barnes J, Gibbons S,


Williamson E. Fundamentals of Pharmacognosy and Phytotherapy. Philadelphia, PA: Churchill Livingstone, 2004, 218.


53. No authors listed. Ruscus aculeatus


(Butcher’s Broom). Monograph. Altern Med Rev. 2001 6: 608–12.


54. Franco A. Lipolyse et aminocissement: nouveaux actifs, Parfums et CosmÉtiques. 1995 121: 36–43.


55. Bertin C, Zunino H, Pittet J-C. et al. A


double-blind evaluation of the activity of an anti-cellulite product containing retinol, caffeine, and ruscognenine by a combination of several non-invasive methods. J Cosmet Sci. 2001 52: 199–210.


56. Greenway FL, Bray GA. Regional fat loss 57. Lucassen GW, Van der Sluys WLN, Van


from the thigh in obese women after adrenergic modulation. Clin Therap. 1987 9: 663–9.


Herk JJ. et al. The effectiveness of massage treatment on cellulite as monitored by ultrasound imageing. Skin Res Technol. 1997 3: 154–60.


58. Verdy M. Effect of caffeine, nicotine and ethanol on lipolysis in human adipose tissue. Rev Can Biol. 1967 26: 179–84.


59. Rothlin ME, Rothlin CB, Wendt VE. Free


fatty acid concentration and composition in arterial blood. Am J Physiol. 1962 203: 306–10.


of the sympatho-adreno-medullary system in man. Acta Medica Scand. 1967 181: 431–8.


placebo both significantly improved dermal texture and hypodermal echogenicity and texture. Day 84 measurements were not reported due to technical difficulties with the ultrasound apparatus. Regarding mechanical characteristics of the skin, both product and placebo firmed the skin and no significant differences in effect were observed. Mean blood flow increased with both active product and placebo, but was greater and more persistent with active product, probably due to the presence of ruscogenine extract (51,54). Differences did not achieve statistical significance. The placebo effect in skin firmness and mean blood flow


may be attributed to massage alone as active product and placebo were applied (57). Another factor was the presence of ethyl alcohol in both active product and placebo; ethyl alcohol may qualitatively alter free fatty acids in plasma (58,59). The authors concluded that active product was more


effective than placebo in decreasing skin macrorelief, which is responsible for the “orange peel” appearance of the skin, and that the skin microcirculation was more


prime-journal.com | March 2011


improved by active product than by placebo. The combination of different methods of evaluation showed that the active product was generally superior to placebo in improving the appearance of cellulite. On the basis of the results of this study, a topical


formulation (ROC®, Johnson & Johnson) containing retinol, caffeine, and ruscogenine in an oil–water emulsion has been developed and released as a non-prescription therapy for the treatment of cellulite. It can be used in all skin types and is the first anti-cellulite treatment containing retinol.


Declaration of interest Neil Sadick is an Advisor for Christian Dior, LVMH Inc.





33


Page 1  |  Page 2  |  Page 3  |  Page 4  |  Page 5  |  Page 6  |  Page 7  |  Page 8  |  Page 9  |  Page 10  |  Page 11  |  Page 12  |  Page 13  |  Page 14  |  Page 15  |  Page 16  |  Page 17  |  Page 18  |  Page 19  |  Page 20  |  Page 21  |  Page 22  |  Page 23  |  Page 24  |  Page 25  |  Page 26  |  Page 27  |  Page 28  |  Page 29  |  Page 30  |  Page 31  |  Page 32  |  Page 33  |  Page 34  |  Page 35  |  Page 36  |  Page 37  |  Page 38  |  Page 39  |  Page 40  |  Page 41  |  Page 42  |  Page 43  |  Page 44  |  Page 45  |  Page 46  |  Page 47  |  Page 48  |  Page 49  |  Page 50  |  Page 51  |  Page 52  |  Page 53  |  Page 54  |  Page 55  |  Page 56  |  Page 57  |  Page 58  |  Page 59  |  Page 60  |  Page 61  |  Page 62  |  Page 63  |  Page 64  |  Page 65  |  Page 66  |  Page 67  |  Page 68  |  Page 69  |  Page 70  |  Page 71  |  Page 72  |  Page 73  |  Page 74  |  Page 75  |  Page 76  |  Page 77  |  Page 78  |  Page 79  |  Page 80