arTicle | FUTURISTIC APPROACHES TO SKIN CARE |
Figure 2 The right periorbital area of a 54-year-old woman at baseline (left) and 56 days after twice-daily application of cream containing extract of A. angustifolium (right)
Anti-ageing by gene modulation
To meet the demand for topical anti-ageing therapies, investigators may first identify epidermal markers that change with ageing, and then measure changes in the expression of those markers after treatment with a prospective anti-ageing product (35). For example, an ageing-associated epidermal marker has been identified by Bonnet-Duquennoy et al. (36) These investigators used real-time quantitative reverse transcriptase- polymerase chain reactions (RT-PCR) to quantify transcripts for ß1A integrin, a marker of basal keratinocyte proliferation, and involucrin, a marker of keratinocyte differentiation. When they compared the transcripts of these two markers in photodamaged skin with their counterparts in non-exposed skin, they found fewer transcripts for ß1A integrin in the photodamaged skin than in the non-exposed skin. This suggested that changes in keratinocyte function were associated with photoageing. In contrast, transcripts for involucrin showed no such changes, indicating that alterations in involucrin transcripts were not related to sun exposure. The authors concluded that transcripts for ß1A integrin could be used to evaluate the efficacy of potential anti- ageing skin care products. Once the appropriate epidermal markers have been
identified, the next step is to measure changes in the expression of these markers after treatment with a prospective anti-ageing product. This review summarizes the results of studies (35) to evaluate the in vitro transcriptional effects of an extract from A. angustifolium seeds on normal human fibroblasts (NHFs) and keratinocytes (NHKs), the in vitro transcriptional effects of a Malva sylvestris extract on reconstituted human epidermis, and the in vivo effects of a facial skin care product containing A. angustifolium seed extract on photodamaged skin. A. angustifolium is a flowering plant and M. sylvestris is a herb found in various geographical locations (35).
Aframomum angustifolium plant’s seed extract has the potential as an anti-ageing treatment.
30 ❚
Transcriptional effects A. angustifolium seed extract This extract was selected for study because it inhibits the production of anti-inflammatory enzymes, suggesting that it has potential as an anti-ageing treatment. Messenger RNA profiles of NHKs and NHFs were identified in vitro using low-density DNA array technologies. Then the cells were treated for up to 48 hr with the extract. In NHKs, the
March 2011 |
prime-journal.com
expressions of three antioxidant genes, metallothionein 1, metallothionein 2, and thioredocin, were increased, while in NHFs, expression of a single antioxidant gene, glutathione peroxidase, was increased. Other upregulated genes were associated with dermal–epidermal junction components and epidermal renewal, suggesting that the A. angustifolium seed extract has anti-ageing potential.
M. sylvestris extract This extract was evaluated by DNA macroarray and RT- PCR technologies. Anti-ageing properties of the extract were compared with those of retinoic acid (RA), a well- known topical formulation for the treatment of wrinkles and photodamage. Experiments were performed in reconstituted human epidermis and the genes studied were known to be affected by RA. The post-treatment results showed that at the mRNA level, most RA-modified genes were also modified by the M. sylvestris extract, and that the gene expression profiles were similar, suggesting that the extract has potential for the treatment of photodamaged skin.
Facial skin care product In a four-week, single-centre study, a facial skin care product containing the A. angustifolium seed extract was applied to the forehead, cheek, crow’s feet area, and nasolabial groove of 30 volunteers. Image analysis of high- resolution photographs taken at the beginning and end of the study period showed significant reduction in areas of skin imperfection and an improvement in skin homogeneity at the end of the treatment period. In a two- centre study, 100 subjects applied a facial cleanser and cosmetic formulation (in blind packageing) to the face and neck twice daily for eight weeks. The cosmetic cream was an oil–water emulsion with ingredients that included the A. angustifolium seed extract. Photographs were obtained before treatment and after four and eight weeks of treatment. A greater than 50% overall global improvement in their skin was reported by 11% and 28% of subjects after four weeks and eight weeks of treatment, respectively. More than 75% of subjects said they would buy the cream. Clinical examples are shown in Figures 2 and 3.
Conclusion Extracts of A. angustifolium and M. sylvestris have anti- ageing effects on human skin as shown by treatment- induced changes in gene expression profiles; a facial skin
IMAGES SADICK
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80