Henrik Vibskov
Miharayasuhiro
Hermes 2012 with Quirky Heritage for Men & Women
Quirky Heritage - Men Initially popularised in the Scottish and Irish Highlands – as the distinctive punched holes allowed water to drain effectively from the shoe – brogues have transcended proletarian origins, and are now regarded as a wear- anywhere footwear option. Reinvigorated on the catwalk by a raft of designers – from Galliano to Hermes – the style becomes relevant for a new generation. Galliano pairs shiny uppers – rendered in the conventional style with perforated patterns and serrated edges – with sturdy soles and yellow stitching that recalls the subculture subversion of DM’s. Trussadi’s wing-tippers juxtapose polished tan leather with wool tartan inserts, promoting a well-dressed, man-about-town appeal. Reappropriated by the London set, any lingering staid associations are lost with the
addition of subtle snakeskins that promote a luxe decadence, the aesthetic exacerbated with striking, yet unexpected colorways – from mustard yellow to burgundy as evidenced at Kenzo. Casual spectators – finished with a rubber sole – represent an alternative to daywear, Junya Watanabe’s classic black and white pairing packs an immediate visual punch. The popularity of the sturdy work-boot
remains, the Winter staple comes complete with kiltie tongues and an oversized yet durable sole – complemented with a multicolored knitted sock and check trousers. Exaggerated rounded toe-caps or lengthened toes – reminiscent of the oxford – reconcile heritage with just the right amount of savoir faire as classics are embraced by the rebellious youth.
Kenzo
Mens CAD drawings
Bright Sole Office Shoes The formality of coordinating black is juxtaposed with a vibrant blue sole, the vibrant color accenting lending an air of playful naïveté to the design. Contrasting white stitch details exaggerate the aesthetic, as the style strikes a balance between the rigors of work and play.
Color-bright Suede Borrowing from the classic 3-eye DM shoe, chunky styles with rounded toes and oversized soles are updated in solid primary block brights. Tactile suede uppers promote a gentlemanly refinement, in direct contradiction to the provocative classic.
Contrast Textured Ankle Boot A hybrid shoe boot captures a make-do and mend mentality, as an extended panel covers the leg, cut away to reveal the ankle. Textural clashes highlight the extreme silhouette – pair leather with suede, snakeskin with hard-wearing wool finishes – and eschew conventional combat connotations.
NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2010 • FOOTWEAR TODAY
• 35
Junya Watanabe
John Galliano
All images courtesy of
trendstop.com
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