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Pears with malt oil, skyr and wild chervil
‘Skyr is a popular Icelandic cultured dairy product, similar to strained yoghurt. It is thought to have originated in Norway and been brought to Iceland by the Vikings. It is traditionally served cold with a topping of sugar and cream, but this dish brings out its unique flavour. The rest of the ingredients, while they may appear daunting at first, are fairly easy to source’
First, make the skyr ice cream. Cook the trimoline and water to a syrup then cool. Bring a little of the milk to the boil with the stabiliser and maltodextrin. Bloom the gelatine – that is, sprinkle the powdered gelatine on the milk and let it sit for 3-5 minutes – before the mixture cools. Hand- blend the rest of the ingredients with the milk mixture then freeze in plastic containers. Make the malt oil by mixing the powdered
malt and oil and processing in a Thermomix or food processor for 3-4 minutes. Transfer to a squeezy bottle To make the pear sauce, peel and core
the pears and drop them into ice water. Vacuum-pack with the other ingredients and steam at 80°C/180°F for 30 minutes. Blend and strain then set aside. Next, lightly whisk the egg whites. Heat
the sugar and water in a pan and, when this caramel has reached 121°C/250°F, whisk
it gently into the egg-white mix to make a meringue. Fold the woodruff through the mixture and pipe very small “kisses” on a non-stick baking tray. Dry in a dehydrator at 60°C/140°F for 4-5 hours. Put the chervil into ice water and keep cold until serving. To serve, put 4 plates in the freezer until
very cold. Gently rub the peel off the over- ripe pears and, using the tip of a teaspoon, scoop 3 small irregular pieces of pear flesh per person. Process the ice cream in a Pacojet (or
quickly churn it by hand if you don’t have one) and place a few tablespoons on each frozen plate. Add the pieces of over-ripe pear and the chervil leaves. Shake the squeezy bottle and split the pear sauce with the malt oil then add to the plate. Serve immediately, sprinkled with woodruff meringues.
SERVES 4 INGREDIENTS
For the skyr ice cream 50g/2oz trimoline (invert sugar syrup)
4 tbsp water
150g/¼pt whole milk Pinch of stabiliser Pinch of maltodextrin Pinch of gelatine 375g/13oz skyr Squeeze of lemon juice Pinch of salt
For the malt oil 75g/3oz powdered malt 200g/7oz grapeseed oil
For the pear sauce 1kg/2¼lb Doyenne du Comice pears, plus 2 extra over-ripe pears, to decorate ½ tsp citric acid
100g/4oz acidic pear cider
For the woodruff meringue
l Recipe taken from Noma: Time and Place in Nordic Cuisine, the first major cookbook by chef René Redzepi, published by Phaidon (£35 hardback). Haute Cuisine readers can buy it at the special price of £29.95, including free UK p&p. To order, tel: 020-7843 1234 with your credit/debit card details and quoting reference NMHL001. Offer open until 30 November 2010 and subject to availability
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50g/2oz egg whites 80g/3½oz sugar 40g/1½oz water ½ tsp dried woodruff 2 sprigs wild chervil, to decorate
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