WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 1, 2010
KLMNO
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E7 A menu stuffed with meatless dishes real entertaining from E1 KATHERINE FREY/THE WASHINGTON POST
Almond-Streusel NectarinesWith Apricot Sauce 8 servings
You can use peaches for this recipe, but nectarines hold up bet-
ter because they tend to retain some of their firmness. Cardamom always complements nectarines or peaches nicely, and a bit of cay- enne pepper adds a slight bit of heat. These nectarines, still warm, served over vanilla or peach ice cream and drizzled with apricot sauce, are pure summertime. MAKE AHEAD: The apricot sauce can be made several days in
advance and reheated in the microwave for 30 to 40 seconds, until the butter in it is no longer congealed. The streusel can be made a day in advance. Fill the fruit several hours in advance. The nectar- ines can be baked a day in advance and reheated, uncovered, in a 300-degree oven for about 10 minutes until warmed through. From Real Entertaining columnist David Hagedorn.
INGREDIENTS
For the sauce · 2 cups apricot nectar, such as Looza brand
· 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
For the streusel and fruit · 5 tablespoons chilled unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
· 1/4 cup sugar · 1/8 teaspoon salt · 1/2 cup flour
· 2 tablespoons almond paste, cubed, such as Odense brand (do not use marzipan)
· 1 teaspoon almond extract · 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon · 1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom
· 1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper (optional)
· 4 large, firm nectarines (2 pounds; may substitute peaches)
STEPS · For the sauce: Bring the nectar to a boil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat; cook for about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until it reduces by slightly more than half and attains a thickened, syrupy consistency. Remove from the heat and swirl in the butter until it is completely incorporated.
· Transfer the sauce to a small serving bowl and cool to room temperature. Cover loosely. (The sauce can be served at room temperature or slightly warm.) The yield is 1 cup.
· For the streusel and fruit: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Spray a medium cast-iron skillet or baking dish with nonstick cooking oil spray.
· Combine 4 tablespoons of the butter, the sugar, salt, flour, almond paste, almond extract and spices in the bowl of a food processor. Pulse 20 times or until the streusel looks like wet sand. Transfer to a medium bowl and use your fingers to work the streusel until it begins to clump together. The yield is 2 cups.
· Cut the nectarines in half lengthwise, carefully twisting them apart. Use a melon baller to remove the pit from each half, then scoop out some of the flesh, enlarging each well to hold the streusel.
· Measure out 1/4 cup of the streusel mixture and use your hands to form it into a loose ball; place it inside the well of the nectarine, with some of it spilling out onto the cut surface of the fruit. Place in the skillet cut side up; repeat with the remaining halves.
· Use small bits of the remaining tablespoon of butter to dot the streusel. Bake for 50 minutes (40 for peaches) or until the streusel is lightly browned and cracked, with juices bubbling through.
· Allow the nectarines to cool for 10 minutes. Serve the fruit warm with ice cream, with the apricot sauce ladled on top.
NUTRITION: | Per serving: 230 calories, 3 g protein, 35 g carbohydrates, 10 g fat, 6 g saturated fat, 25mg cholesterol, 40mg sodium, 3 g dietary fiber, 25 g sugar
Recipe tested by David Hagedorn; e-mail questions to
food@washpost.com
supply (the 2,500 gallons ofwater it takes to produce a pound of meat, as opposed to 220 gallons for a pound of soy), fossil fuel dependence (to manufacture, transport and store themeat) and global warming (ruminant live- stock is responsible for 28percent of global methane emissions, ac- cording to theEPA). Look, I get it. I read“InDefense
of Food,” in whichMichael Pollan lays out the succinct imperative (stretched into a lengthy diatribe) to: “Eat food.Not toomuch.Most- ly plants.” I’ve had my share of health problems and struggled to bringmy cholesterol into the “ex- cellent” range, lose weight and keep it off, andmodify bad eating habits. (Including,bytheway,opt- ing for leanmeats over ones high in saturated fats.They do exist.) Still, it is taking me a while to
cozy up to the idea of doing with- out meat one day a week, even if John Tesh, Yoko Ono and Gwy- neth Paltrow are telling me to do so
atMeatlessMonday.com. As a dinner-party theme, the
idea troubles me a little. It is one thing to invite vegetarians, but quite another to foist the idea on guests as some kind of statement. One evening, after a friend served a vegetarian meal, I was politely effusive about how delicious ev- erything was but yearned to stop off for a burger on the way home. (I didn’t.) When the rumor circulated
that Chelsea Clinton would offer only vegan fare at her wedding (she didn’t), I felt sorry for the guests. To me, the most compel- ling reasons to attend events like that are pigs-in-blankets, humon- gous iced shrimp and steamship rounds of beef. But I’m as susceptible to peer
pressure as the next person.More andmore ofmy friends are going meatless on Mondays, and it is nearly impossible to pick up a magazine, turn on the TV or go online without hearing about the movement. So vegetarian it will be for La-
borDay, andforMondays thereaf- ter. Dinner guests will be fore- warned. When putting together the
menu, I chose not to go the pasta route. Aside from the fact that it just seemed like an easy way out, merely replacing fat with carbo-
hydrates in themain course does not fit into the eating regimen I follow. The abundance of brightly col-
ored bell peppers, globe zucchini, pattypan squash and spherical heirloom eggplants displayed at the farmers market fairly begged to be stuffed and baked. I adapted a recipe for them from one of my favorite cookbooks, “FoodofLife,” a collection of Persian recipes by Najmieh Batmanglij. Such dishes usually are made with ground lamb or beef; in my rendition, crumbled extra-firmtofu stood in as a reasonable substitute and boosted the protein that yellow split peas contributed to the reci- pe. A generous amount of chopped shiitake mushrooms simulated the texture and body of groundmeat; for goodmeasure, I added toasted pine nuts to the mint-and-tarragon-infused stuff- ing and emboldened the peppers’ accompanying tomato saucewith charred ancho chilies. I decided to use the idea of stuffedfoodasarunningthemeof
themeal. Bakedwhole portobello mushroom caps filled with thyme-laced caramelized onions and a bubbling brownManchego cheese topping will be the first course. For dessert, I will pack scooped-out nectarine halves with almond streusel and butter, bake them and serve them with vanilla bean or peach ice cream anda saucemade of reducedapri- cot nectar. For an hors d’oeuvre, I’d
planned to re-create Komi chef Johnny Monis’s signature (and heavenly) warm Medjool dates stuffed with mascarpone cheese, drizzled with olive oil and sprin- kled with sea salt. But during a triptoWholeFoodsMarket tobuy thedates, I eyedadisplay of fresh- lymade guacamole. Some vegeta- ble stock and milk whisked into the guacamole, already nicely fla- vored with cumin, jalapeno pep- per, bits of red onion and red pepper, upgraded the dip to a refreshing, and refreshingly easy- to-prepare, chilled avocado soup. The addition of diced cucumbers
and blanched corn kernels trans- formed the soup into—guacapa- cho! When I returned fromthemar-
ket, I emptied the bags of vegeta- bles into a wide, shallow, garnet- colored glass bowl. It instantly occurred to me that this, instead of flowers, would make a perfect centerpiece for the inaugural MeatlessMonday dinner. While developing the recipes
for the menu, I made two other discoveries. The peppers were so satisfying and full-flavored that I could foresee a day in the distant future when I might actually buy tofu again. And the baked porto- bello with caramelized onions andManchego cheese turned out to be a thrilling complement to the rosy slices of grilled balsamic- and-herb-marinated leg of lamb I hadmade for dinner that night. I made a mental note to serve
them together at a party some night. ATuesday night.
food@washpost.com
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