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WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 1, 2010


TOM SIETSEMA First Bite


A garden that just doesn’t grow on you I


fell in love with Germany when I lived there for a year as a high school student and


discovered the simple pleasures of a warm, salt-crusted pretzel served straight from the baker’s oven and a proper golden Wiener schnitzel dished out with vinegar-laced potato salad. My pre-euro romance was kindled by an exchange rate back then that was close to four marks to the dollar, allowing me to spend quite a bit of time exploring “bee sting” cakes in the many pastry shops and hefeweizen in the many pubs. News of a beer garden


opening onHStreetNortheast this summer rekindled some of those fond memories and whettedmy appetite for some of the lusty food ofmy youth. The owners (from


Washington’s RussiaHouse) got the look down pat. “It’s like another dimension,” a friend says as he walks from the dark- paneled front bar, decorated with antique steins, onto the sprawling brick patio of Biergarten Haus. A sea of sturdy communal tables and heavy benches, shaded by outsize umbrellas and fenced in with more wood, suggests a forest. Flags from Germany’s 16 states flap from a small carriage house that has been turned into a brewdispenser. Along with a round of beer from the all-


KLMNO


K EZ EE


Restaurants GOOD TO GO


E3


JAMES M. THRESHER FOR THE WASHINGTON POST Chef Daniele Catalani with a serving of gnocci.


Toscana Cafe in Northeast Even if you haven’t been by in a


while, the aroma greeting you at Toscana Cafe is instantly familiar. Mmm, focaccia! Baked that morning, its rose-


EVY MAGES FOR THE WASHINGTON POST Kelly Connors and JenHoran hoist a couple of steins during an evening at the beer garden.


German list, assembled by local beer guru Bill Catron,my quartet orders a basket of pretzel rolls. Dry and dull and served with


ordinary mustard, they’re the first sign we’re not going to be visiting Germany tonight. Further into dinner, no amount


of beer can erase the reality of arid sauerbraten, spongy bratwurst and a Wiener schnitzel whose stiffness could qualify the meat as a lethal weapon. The squiggly sauteed spaetzle are decent, but a guy can down only so many little dumplings.


DISH An edited excerpt from the


Going Out Gurus blog (voices.washingtonpost.com/ goingoutgurus):


Break out the chickory


coffee. After a false start with the


owners of Liberty Tavern last year, pastry chef David Guas confirms that he’s opening an all-day ode to his native Louisiana. Bayou Bakery, Coffee Bar&Eatery is scheduled to start serving pressed-to-order muffulettas, layer cakes, root beer floats, blue-plate specials and more at


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MONTGOMERY COUNTY


the corner ofNorth Courthouse Road and 15th StreetNorth in Arlington in earlyNovember. Guas, who is also the author


of the cookbook “DamGoodSweet,” says he wants the 70-seat gathering spot, which will include a bar for dispensing beer and wine, to reflect but not “scream” the Deep South. There will be “no Spanish moss or wrought-iron” fixtures. Bayou’s “funkified” interior


will be decorated with pressed- cane tabletops, painted-glass artwork from a cousin inNew Orleans and lots of reclaimed


shutters.Mindful of his small budget, he says, “I’mdoing a lot of the workmyself.” Similarly, “we’re going to make [customers] work a little bit”: Patrons will place their orders at a counter. This time around, an old


friend, Passion Food Hospitality, is helping out. The Washington-based restaurant group, which gave Guas his start (at DC Coast) a dozen years ago, is a partner in the project. Guas, 35, makes our mouth


water when he previews his breakfast, lunch and dinner


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09/01-09/07/2010


menus. Among our excuses to fall off any diet will be breakfast sandwiches made with fresh biscuits, shrimp bisque and “a sloppy roast beef po boy” requiring “a roll of paper towels,” jokes the chef. More novel is his caramel


corn, which Guas first made popular at Ceiba downtown. In his newversion, the sweetsmaker is spiking the snack with cayenne and stirring in Alan Benton bacon, along with its drippings. Expect “PorKorn” to be a hit. —Tom Sietsema


The largely joyless food is


eaten to the accompaniment of polka music, but the loudest notes are those playing inmy mouth: oom-pah-blah.


1355 H St. NE. 202-388-4085. biergartenhaus.com. Entrees, $13- $22.


mary-yeasty scent still strong by evening, the bread is one of many from-scratch foods that have made Daniele Catalani’s Italian takeout a go-to in the near-North- east neighborhood. Catalani opened the eatery a


year ago in a converted town- house just east of Union Station. His setup is unconventional: You enter via the kitchen, place your order withwhoever is standingby (often, it’s a cook making eye contact), then watch the meal come together. About a dozen seats fill the


second floor, but most orders get rushed out the door (in well-insu- lated plastic carryalls). Which is just how Catalani planned it: “At lunchtime the place is more like a deli. I wanted to drive that con- cept through to dinner. I wanted people who don’t have time to sit down to have an option.” The options are abundant, be-


ginning with meat- and fish- based courses including chicken saltimbocca and grilled salmon ($9.50-$10). Ten-inch pizzas come in three styles: margherita ($10), formaggi ($11) and New York ($12). Daily specials present themselves via chalkboard, as do sandwiches prepared on house- made ciabatta. Fresh pasta is always a pleaser.


We recently chose gnocchi with pesto and sun-dried tomatoes ($8.50) and fettuccine with clams ($8.50). The pungent pesto called to mind a long-ago lunch on a Genoa terrace. And the sweet little clams, still in their shells? Catalani punches them up with crushed red pepper and garlic. Penne with broccoli rabe and spicy sausage ($9) is another fa- vorite.


Salads are a requisite: Try the


sweet potato with scallions, figs and balsamic vinaigrette ($6) or the corn-orzocombowith cucum- bers, peppers and passion fruit dressing ($6). Catalani grills the corn, giving the dish creamy, earthy dimensions. If you happen by the patio on


Saturdays, you might see the chef spit-roasting a pig for porchetta. That’s next on our list of offerings to try. Toscana is a “family place,” an employee told us recently. “Peo- ple feel at home here.” Indeed.Much as we might fan-


tasize about walking into the house to the scent of fresh focac- cia—well, taking home Toscana’s brown bag of flatbread (included with each purchase) more than suffices.


—Kristen Hinman


Toscana Cafe 601 Second St. NE; 202-525-2693. www.toscanacafedc.com. Hours: Mondays through Sundays, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 5 to 10 p.m.


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