ABCDE
FOOD
wednesday, april 7, 2010
BEER
The Madness continues
The judges winnow the field of competitors to the Final Four. E5
“
Their surfaces are alluringly rippled and crimped, and
their diminutive shapes look . . . great on a cheese plate.”
— Domenica Marchetti on Caseifico dell’Alta-Langa cheeses. ONLINE
BLOG Check out our daily postings at washingtonpost.com/allwecaneat CHAT We answer questions at 1 p.m. today at washingtonpost.com/liveonline
MORE RECIPES Open-Faced Avocado Cheese Melt, E2 Grilled Chicken Salad With Sugar Snap Peas and Strawberries, E6
FIRST BITE
Kushi, for sushi . . .
. . . and more. Tom Sietsema checks out a Northwest newcomer.
E3
milk’s new
Weak and watery is out. Mid-size dairies are earning fans with creamy, flavorful products.
by Jane Black
MICHAEL DIBARI JR. FOR THE WASHINGTON POST
Warren Taylor launched his Snowville Creamery in December 2007.
“Oh, my God. The cream! You gotta taste the cream!” said Warren Taylor. “It’s pale yellow. And it’s got this amazing smell. You have to get some.” To say that Taylor, the founder of Snow- ville Creamery, is excited about dairy products is an understatement: “If you cut me, I bleed white,” he likes to say. Tay- lor wants to elicit that same level of en- thusiasm from everyone. It’s why his milk
comes only from grass-fed cows, which he believes creates a more vibrant flavor. It’s why the milk is pasteurized for just 17 sec- onds at 165 degrees, as low as the law al- lows, to preserve that taste. And it’s why the Pomeroy, Ohio, creamery has 24 part- time workers dedicated to handing out samples in grocery stores in the hopes of proving that all milk is not created equal. Sparking a new American love affair with milk would be an ambitious enough goal. Per-capita consumption has plum- meted 30 percent since 1970, according to
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MG PG VA
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JAMES M. THRESHER FOR THE WASHINGTON POST
government figures. Many American con- sumers long ago accepted milk as a bland and watery, if nutritious, obligation. But Taylor’s evangelism is aimed at not only consumers but also his fellow milk pro- ducers. “The big lie is that all milk is the same, and therefore everyone gets paid the same for producing it,” he said, re- ferring to the government guidelines that regulate the price most farmers receive for their milk. “That is what is crippling the whole. It keeps the entrepreneurs and the little guys from rising up.” Snowville’s solution is to create a premi- um milk that it controls from cow to car- ton. The creamery isn’t profitable yet. But it is growing fast. The 28-month-old
milk continued on E4
A breath of fresh air on the dinner table
We cooks have had our fill of winter
by David Hagedorn
Special to The Washington Post
REAL ENTERTAINING
The calendar and a few days of glori- ous weather tell us the season has changed. But as far as the dinner table is concerned, an obstacle still stands in the way: Mother Na- ture. The point was made on a recent
JAMES M. THRESHER FOR THE WASHINGTON POST
For a bright touch, the veal stew is ladled over a bed of baby spinach.
RECIPES
• Blanquette de Veau E6 • Celery Root and Apple Salad E6 • Orange Cake With Citrus Compote E6
Saturday evening at Tallula restaurant in Arlington. The server announced a spe- cial entree of braised rabbit with peas, carrots and spinach ricotta dumplings, brightly noting, “The chef wants it to be spring.” Don’t we all. The rest of chef Barry Koslow’s menu told more of a winter story: fried oysters with celery root puree; cod with apple- wood-smoked bacon, lentils and cau- liflower; snapper with maitake mush- rooms and blood orange vinaigrette; beet ravioli; side dishes of butter-braised kale and spaghetti squash.
but find ourselves stuck in a transitional period. It’s not grilling season yet, but we’ve eaten enough short ribs slow- cooked in red wine sauce to last until next fall. So what do you do to come out of the food doldrums, particularly when what is available and good, produce-wise, still largely consists of what has been around all winter?
I opt for a strategy that takes optimal
advantage of light and color, starting with the occasion. An informal Sunday supper that begins at 5 or 6 is a great way to entertain in early spring. A party that takes place on that day gives the host plenty of time to prepare during the weekend. Thanks to daylight saving time, a good portion of the meal tran- spires while it is light outside. Guests ap- preciate that the event ends at a reason- able hour. When I invited friends over for a Sun- day a few weeks ago, I asked whether
entertaining continued on E4
JAMES M. THRESHER FOR THE WASHINGTON POST
RECIPES
• Slow-Cooker Lamb Agrodolce, above, E6 • Slow-Cooker Chickpeas With Sunchokes and Chorizo ONLINE
Cooking for One:
When a slow
cooker pays off.
Page E4
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