beyond adequate description. Its scale,
depth and remoteness are best appreciated
from the sea. Even with a wide-angle
lens on your camera you won’t be able
to do it justice. Few boats make it past
Ardnamurchan Point – Britain’s most
westerly point, so you will have these
stunning cruising grounds to yourselves.
One area we loved were the Orkneys, so
much so that we took a 2 week holiday
here – after all cruising can be hard work!
Storm bound in Whitby The northwest corner of Scotland, near
Cape Wrath is isolated; with many of the
communities having a feeling of being on
With so many sources of weather available,
the edge of survival, following the demise of
they often vary. The real challenge is not to
the fishing industry. So you might expect
pick the one that you would like to have!
Ituna at anchor, Puilladobhrain
that the Orkneys will be the same, yet they
have a real buzz about them and a feeling of
WHERE TO GO
a community in control of its destiny. Their
One of the pleasures of a circumnavigation
rich history over thousands of years, make
is the wide variety of harbours and
for a rewarding stay and if time and money
anchorages that you will encounter en-
permit, it is worth hiring a car to explore
route. This is particularly true, if you are
mainland Orkney. The clarity of the light, the
used to sailing in crowded waters, where
lush vegetation, the turquoise colour of the
marinas dominate and the opportunity
water and the white sandy beaches, make
to find a quiet anchorage is rare. On this
a cruise around the Orkneys memorable.
cruise, you will experience everything from
Although the tides are tricky, good planning,
bustling ports, where the harbour is still at
timing and healthy respect for them, will
the heart of the community, to deserted
ensure safe passage. The Orkneys welcome
Moored in Stonehaven
anchorages far from civilisation. The
visiting yachts, with marinas and pontoons
diversity of harbours does mean that you
in many of the Islands and they have a few
need to be prepared for various different
free visitors buoys as well.
mooring situations: anchoring, buoys,
pontoons, marinas and walls. With the
Whichever route you take, when you return
ability to dry out easily, you will also be able
home, you will finish with a real sense
to enjoy many harbours, which are out of
of achievement having completed your
bounds to most on this trip.
challenge and a real appreciation of how
beautiful our coast is.
Do take full advantage of the diversity of
ports and don’t just plan to stay in marinas.
UK and Ireland
Otherwise you might just miss out on some
Circumnavigator’s Guide
Rum and Eigg in the distance from Arisaig
drop dead gorgeous spots and the real
is a practical guide and
essence of this cruise. For example, an
gives advice on planning
anchorage at Holy Island, where else do you
and preparation: when
have 2 castles for your anchor bearings. A
to leave, whether
wall in Stonehaven, with the dramatic ruin of
to go clockwise or
Dunnottar Castle nearby. A buoy in Arisaig,
anti, what charts are
with views over Rum and Eigg. A pontoon in
needed, how much it is
the heart of Newcastle, just a stone’s throw
likely to cost, possible
away from the Blinking Eye Bridge.
routes (via canals or 'the long way'), what
stores and equipment are needed, likely
On a three month cruise, you will spend
pitfalls en route, and what types of running
Flowerdale, Loch Gairloch
much time in harbours with many historic
maintenance might be required.
sites close by, so take a Rough Guide along
to make the most of your surroundings.
It is impossible to do justice to all the
Sam gained her RYA
wonderful places on our coast. So I will pick
Yachtmaster at the age
only a few. One of the highlights for many is
of 20 and has sailed to
the west coast of Scotland. We only spent
the Azores and back,
25% of our cruise there. If we were to do it
cruised around the
again, we would spend at least 40% of our
Canary Islands, and the
time cruising this area. There are just so
Mainland Orkney
Baltic several times, and
many wonderful anchorages but a few that
in the summer of 2006
were recommended by many. Ardminish
Acarsaid Mor (South Rona) – a place
sailed around Britain with her partner, Mags
Bay (Gigha) – a peaceful Island benefiting
offering total isolation apart from the seals
in their Rival 38 Ituna.
from the Gulf Stream. Tinker’s Hole (Erraid,
– once you anchor there, you won’t want to
off Mull) – isolated rock amphitheatre with
leave. The dramatic, awe inspiring scenery
Sam’s website is at www.ituna.info.
white sandy sea bed and turquoise water.
of the northwest coast of Scotland is almost
30  MULTIHULL REVIEW : FEBRUARY 2009
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