south in September and October the one word of warning – Madeirans are the into the possibilities of leaving the boat
weather improves as you head south. We craziest drivers in Europe! somewhere other than Las Palmas where it
were blessed with warm sun and moderate may well be cleaner, safer and more secure.
winds from northern Spain right down to
Las Palmas, Gran Canaria
Gran Canaria. Obviously the weather is not
Las Palmas is an obvious place for the
The ARC organisers do not arrive and set up
always so benign so give yourself plenty of
organisers to start the ARC, however the
shop in Las Palmas until a fortnight prior to
time and enjoy the route.
marina, although large has inadequate and
the start. There is no point in being there any
poor facilities that are not able to properly
earlier.
From our experience there are a few ‘must
cope with the influx of so many boats
see’ places on the route south.
awaiting departure across the Atlantic at the
Once they arrive the ARC team get down to
If you have not been before then be
same time.
business very quickly and efficiently. They
sure to visit Santiago de Compost Ella
The marina is dirty and the water filthy
organise some excellent seminars on all
in Galicia. This medieval city, one of the
which is no surprise when toilet and shower
sorts of relevant subjects from provisioning
great pilgrimage centres in Europe, is truly
facilities are so poor. We were moored on
to weather, and also lay on some excellent
magnificent.
the ‘big boat’ quay which had one male
parties. The camaraderie generated at these
toilet to cope with 30 odd 40 -80ft yachts
social events will continue throughout your
Regardless of your religious sentiments
and their many crew. The story is the same
trip.
try to attend the mass at midday. It is an
throughout the marina.
extraordinary experience. Go either from La Having 200+ boats on the same route as
Coruna (itself a pleasant town (but use the
Even more
you and looking at the daily positions of all
old inner marina, the Darsena, rather than
of a problem
the as yet unfinished and filthy outer marina
is security.
– both are prone to swell) or go to Portosin
Boats are
marina in the Ria de Muros and take the
broken into
“
The ARC organisers do
your friends and
rivals add a great
not arrive and set up
amount of interest
and enjoyment
bus.
on a too
shop in Las Palmas until a
to the crossing,
regular basis.
fortnight prior to the start.
which, let’s face
In Portugal do visit Lisbon. It is a wonderful,
The marina
it, is normally very
interesting city and easy to get around. It
claims
There is no point in being boring. There is
is easy and cheap to get to by train from
to have
Cascais or Oeirias. Once there take the old
there any earlier.
also the added
significantly
wooden trams around town. They go up the
stepped up
steep city hills through ridiculously narrow
security, but our experience, especially at
streets and you can jump on and off at will
night is that the security patrols ‘disappear’.
whenever something takes your interest.
”
reassurance that
should something
go very wrong there are a lot of boats in your
vicinity to come to your aid.
Two weeks prior to the start the multihull
fleet is moved to the separate marine
On reaching St. Lucia – and you will be
Also from the same base do go to Sintra, an
belonging to the Club Vela Latina. Although
greeted royally whether first or last – the
old town up in the hills with more palaces
this is more pleasant, quieter and ostensibly
ARC organisers continue their good work
than the rest of Portugal put together. If
more secure that is not the case in actuality.
in helping sort out any issues and laying on
you only have time for one then make it the
Even though the gates to the marina are
more parties. I just wish they would stop the
truly bizarre Palace of Pena. You won’t be
locked at night there was no security
extraordinarily loud music that emanates from
disappointed.
presence and during the two weeks several
their office from dawn till dusk!
cats were broken into at night. It got so
Finally, if heading off from Portugal to the
bad that some boats were keeping security
Initially I was very cool on the idea of joining
Canaries then make sure you visit Madeira.
watches overnight.
in an organised rally/race across the Atlantic,
I had no preconceptions of this island and but I have been impressed enough by the
just loved it. It is verdant, mountainous, and
If planning to arrive in the Canaries early
ARC to say that should I be crossing again
with so many microclimates in one small
then return home for a while prior to the
I would have no hesitation in joining in or
island the flora is truly magnificent. Only
start of the ARC (as we did) then look
recommending it to others.
»
  FEBRUARY 2009 : MULTIHULL REVIEW  11
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