EDITORIAL


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November 2021


November 2021 cosmeticsbusiness.com


cosmeticsbusiness.com


Influencers: The first


generation Where are they now?


BEAUTY UGLY


Wonky foods make great cosmetics


Connected


packaging A portal into virtual worlds


Retinol alternatives What’s the new bakuchiol? Editor Julia Wray


Contributors Lucy Tandon Copp Sarah Parsons Becky Bargh


Subeditor/Contributor Austyn King Head of Marketing Jemma Stanworth Art Editor Sibylla Duffy Print & Digital Production Editor Charlotte Alldis Head of Print & Digital Production Ross Murdoch Editorial Scientific Advisor John Woodruff


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Cosmetics Business magazine ISSN 2634-8586 (Print) is published monthly by HPCi Media Limited, Natraj Building, The Tanneries, 55 Bermondsey Street, London, SE1 3XG, UK. Material may be reproduced only by prior arrangement and with due acknowledgement to Cosmetics Business magazine.


©HPCi Media Limited ISSN 2634-8586 (Print) Virtually influential


If you are a gentleman looking to Italian luxury fashion house Prada for inspiration, you will be greeted by the chiseled handsomeness of Hollywood actor and producer Jake Gyllenhaal, the face of the L’Oréal- licensed brand’s latest masculine fragrance, Luna Rossa Ocean. While Gyllenhaal might cut an unrealistically aspirational figure for most men, they should count themselves lucky that they aren’t women, for whom the barrier has just been raised even higher. Fronting the new campaign for Prada’s Candy scent is... well, Candy. Let me explain: Candy is a virtual model developed to embody (and promote) Prada’s popular gourmand fragrance. Part of me was tempted to type something snarky – was former Candy spokesmodel Léa Seydoux, a living, breathing Bond girl, not quite perfect enough?! But, I confess, I actually quite like the concept of Candy the model. The same goes for her predecessors Lil Miquela, a 19-year-old robot with 3 million followers on Instagram, and the world’s first autonomously animated digital influencer, Yumi, set up to sell SK-II skin care. They are novel, fun and add Gen Z appeal – and, let’s face it, for all the talk of unattainable porelessness, after the initial ‘uncanny valley’ shock value, the virtual models are clearly exactly that: virtual.


Candy brings the same energy to her eponymous Prada scent that


Puig’s kawaii robot character/bottle design Phantom brings to the new male fragrance of the same name from Paco Rabanne. In November’s edition, we discover how the bottle’s cap, in this instance, became a conduit to explore a wider ‘Phantom galaxy’, and do a deep dive into the benefits of gamification and broader world building for beauty brands.


Printed by Stephens & George Print Group


The paper used in this magazine is obtained from manufacturers who operate within internationally recognised standards. The paper is sourced from sustainable, properly managed forestation.


Also in this issue, we ask: what happened to the original beauty influencers? And discover a repeated story of big names stepping away from the limelight to focus on health, wellness and pet projects. Influencers are real people, after all, not robots.


FALLOUT We assess


BREXIT the impact


Julia Wray, Editor COSMETICS BUSINESS cosmeticsbusiness.com November 2021 3


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