INGREDIENTS RETINOL LIKE
face and 3ppm Matrixyl on the other, once a day for the first two months and then twice a day. Similar results were observed for the retinol and Sederma’s ingredient over four months, while the two-months’ data suggests the pentapeptide provides anti-wrinkle benefits even faster than retinol.
PLANT POWER
It would be remiss not to include the aforementioned wonder ingredient bakuchiol in this article and Sytheon’s Sytenol A is in hot demand following the publication of 2018’s comparison study. Sytenol A is photostable and can be used during the day, unlike retinol. It is also stable in formulations and suitable for sensitive skins. As Curry observes: “Finding a more naturally-derived alternative to proven ingredients is currently en vogue for certain consumers.” Lipotrue’s latest offer, Reneseed, boasts retinol and retinoic acid-like activity when it comes to collagen I production efficacy. It contains plant-transforming growth factor Beta-2 (plant TGFB2). According to Lipotrue, well-balanced TGFB2 signalling is essential to sustain skin health and function, but as we age, internal and external factors (including photoageing, hormonal ageing, smoking, diet and stress) affect TGFB2 and therefore its activity. In a study of 20 women who applied 2% Reneseed twice daily for 28 days, wrinkle count, volume and depth dipped -16%, -11% and -14% respectively, while skin roughness slid -6.9%. Radiance, conversely, was up 7% in seven days and 11% in 14 days. Over the full 28 days, skin radiance increased 42%.
The ingredient is derived from Nicotiana benthamiana, a native plant of Australia which taps into the A-beauty trend.
IFF-Lucas Meyer Cosmetics’ Lanablue
is a Aphanizomenon flos-aquae algae extract from the Cascadia region in North America. It is, as its name suggests, a blue-green colour, and boasts a high content of group B vitamins, amino acids and specific pigments. Its effect on keratinocytes differentiation is akin to that of natural retinoids, offering epidermis smoothing and densifying benefits.
Like retinoids, it influences markers including filaggrin, the marker of cell differentiation; loricrin, for corneocyte differentiation; calgranulins A and B and psoriasin, markers of basal
24 November 2021
Botanical alfalfa concentrate is used by Chanel for its Le Lift range
proliferation; and TIMP 1 (tissue inhibitor of metalloproteinase-1), which regulates the integrity of the extracellular structure.
Lift Oléoactif from Hallstar Beauty, meanwhile, is an eco-designed, oil-based active extracted via Oléo-éco-extraction technology that concentrates key biomolecules from Spilanthes acmella flowers and leaves and Astragalus membranaceus roots.
In a wrinkle study on ten Caucasian women with mature skin, twice daily application of 1% Lift Oléoactif not only had an instant (five minutes) effect, its activity is reinforced over time with a reduction of the primary wrinkle by -200% after 28 days. A 5% dose showed an increase in skin elasticity of 6.1 times that of placebo.
Japanese cedar buds, rich in isopimaric acid, are the basis of Gattefossé’s Gatuline Renew. The product claims to boost all essential steps of epidermis renewal (proliferation, differentiation, cornification and desquamation) while accelerating the recovery of the barrier function.
Barrier function is restored in just four days, while one month’s use resulted in optimal restoration of water content in the skin, with transepidermal water loss decreasing -9%. It improves desquamation, smoothes skin and improves skin comfort.
ROCK & ROLL
Hema’Tîte, another Gattefossé offering and part of the supplier’s Mineral Matters line-up of bioavailable minerals, is another material claiming a retinol- like activity. It is a complex that’s rich in iron from the hematite gemstone. It significantly boosts pro-collagen I
synthesis and improves dermal architecture, resulting in a reduction in the appearance of wrinkles, as well as epidermal thickening benefits. Like the other ingredients in the Mineral Matters range, Hema’Tîte is a liquid extract of semi-precious stone that utilises the role of minerals in living organisms, known as oligotherapy, which Gattefossé notes has been used since Egyptian times to boost healing processes and support the body’s metabolism.
SMART DELIVERY Infinitec notes, however, that alternatives to retinol, while interesting due to their better stability, can present problems of skin penetration or show a lower tolerance in the skin. Rather than zeroing in on replacements, Infinitec strives to increase the performance of retinol from a stability, penetration or bioavailability point of view. It’s an approach favoured by The Inkey List’s Curry, who adds: “The technology now within different retinols and retinoids to ensure a more pleasant and less harsh experience ensures keeping this ingredient open and accessible to a larger portion of the population.
“It is potent and not using the right concentration, type, formulation or combination of all three could leave your skin irritated. But, if you dose this right, or try slowly and at low concentrations, you will absolutely see an impact.”
According to Infinitec, the use of a delivery system substantially improves issues from retinol’s incorporation into the formula to better tolerability due to its being released continuously. Infinitec’s delivery system for retinol is a lipid vehicle from carnauba wax that has two main advantages: it facilitates the incorporation of retinol; and is water dispersible, so the formulators can incorporate retinol in the aqueous phase, enabling the creation of gels or light emulsions including retinol. It offers two options, depending on the desired concentration of retinol: Wax Capsules for oil soluble actives and vitAlease 7.0, which enables a high concentration of retinol (7%). Whether you’re looking for a vegetable or even mineral solution to tackling recalcitrant wrinkles which doesn’t involve retinol (or which can be partnered with retinol for added oomph) ingredients suppliers have your needs covered
cosmeticsbusiness.com
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