INGREDIENTS RETINOL LIKE
R
etinol is considered the ‘gold standard’ when it comes to skin care ingredients; its efficacy in speeding up cell
turnover means it helps alleviate myriad skin concerns.
“[Retinol is] proven to reduce fine lines and wrinkles, has high efficacy in treating acne scarring and
hyperpigmentation, plus it can exfoliate and stimulate collagen production,” says Mark Curry, co-founder and CEO of The Inkey List. “It covers most ages and most key skin care concerns, which is a big reason why it is hot and becoming increasingly hotter: because it works.” As well-documented as its efficacy is
retinol’s propensity to cause dryness, irritation, flakiness and sensitivity to the sun, sometimes referred to as ‘retinol burn’.
Formulators have circumvented this via strategies including
microencapsulation to prolong the release of retinol and boosters, enabling a reduced retinol percentage load. But they have also turned in the direction of often-botanical active ingredients that boldly claim similar effects.
In 2018, researchers from California, Michigan and Pennsylvania carried out a study on bakuchiol, found in the seeds of the Indian plant Psoralea corylifolia, which found bakuchiol and retinol to induce highly similar gene expression in human skin. A 12-week study on 44 participants found both extracts decreased wrinkle surface area, while bakuchiol outperformed retinol when it came to tackling hyperpigmentation. The retinol users, meanwhile, reported more skin scaling and stinging upon application than those trialling bakuchiol.
Since then, the popularity of bakuchiol as an anti-ageing ingredient has skyrocketed, with brands including The Inkey List (Bakuchiol Moisturizer), Herbivore Botanicals (Bakuchiol Serum) and Medik8 (Bakuchiol Peptides) introducing Psoralea corylifolia-powered products, and many brands combining the ingredient with retinol for a one-two punch against ageing with reduced potential for sensitivity.
Meanwhile, Chanel’s Le Lift range of smoothing, lifting skin care products is based on a natural ingredient that is as effective as retinol, but gentle on the skin: botanical alfalfa concentrate. In instrumental and clinical evaluations, the hero ingredient was found to smooth wrinkles by -25% after
22 November 2021
‘
As well-documented as its efficacy is retinol’s propensity to cause dryness, irritation, flakiness and sensitivity to the sun
significant and demonstrable impact on classic needs like wrinkle reduction, scarring and pigmentation.”
two months’ use, firm skin (+10% in one month), improve skin radiance (+34% in one month) and boost skin elasticity (+34% in one month).
What, then, does industry believe will be the next big ingredient to rival the all-powerful vitamin A derivative? Cosmetics Business reached out to suppliers to ask ‘what’s your alternative to retinol?’ And here are their recommendations.
OTHER RETINOIDS
New from Symrise is SymRenew HPR and Symrise notes that while retinol is very well-known among consumers, there are actually five forms of retinoids with various efficacy.
Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, or HPR, the active component of the new ingredient, confers the same benefits as retinol without the negative side effects. The powerful retinol derivative renews skin cells and improves overall skin texture and appearance. Skin is smoother and has fewer wrinkles in only two weeks and the ingredient is mild enough to be used twice daily without irritation. It is also stable to oxidation and easy to formulate.
PEPTIDES FOR PERFORMANCE Also from Symrise is RetinoPeptide 189, likewise touted as an alternative to retinol. The peptide steps away from the negative side effects but provides a smoother, more youthful complexion. It triggers collagen synthesis improving skin barrier function and helps skin retain moisture.
Indeed, The Inkey List’s Curry pinpoints such solutions as viable substitutes for retinol in skin care, noting: “Look out for exciting peptides and petide combinations that have
cosmeticsbusiness.com
A 2021 launch from Silab is Peptilium, a global anti-ageing ingredient comprising natural biopeptides purified to 95% from cranberries. It strengthens the epidermal barrier function and boosts complexion radiance, while improving the quality of the dermal-epidermal junction and of the dermal matrix for an anti-wrinkle action. An in vivo study showed Peptilium to have a more rapid effect than retinol on complexion radiance and the reduction of crow’s feet wrinkles. While the effects of retinol were observed (and significant) after 42 days of treatment, Peptilium had a visible and significant effect from 21 days. In addition, it demonstrated a positive effect on barrier function – a stark contrast to retinol’s substantial increase in transepidermal water loss. Meanwhile, no irritation or discomfort manifested in those using Peptilium. Sederma’s Matrixyl is not new – in fact, if it were human, it would be celebrating getting the ‘keys to the door’ this year, as it was launched in 2000. However, the powerful pentapeptide is now available to all of Sederma’s clients, having been previously restricted to just one. The pentapeptide Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser, a natural fragment of pro-collagen I (modified by acylation with palmitic acid to increase epidermal bioavailability) acts as a signalling molecule, triggering fibroblasts to stimulate the neo-synthesis of collagens I, III, IV, fibronectin and glycosaminoglycans (including hyaluronic acid). In vivo, a double blind half face study was conducted over two and four months on 16 healthy female volunteers, applying a cream containing 700ppm of retinol on one side of the
Bakuchiol, found in the seeds of
Psoralea corylifolia, soared in popularity as a plant-based
substitute for retinol
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