FOOD & DRINK
Top quality wines at realistic prices
At this time of year one should be saving or abstaining after the extravagances of the festive season, and yet Tom Harrow suggests there are also some gatherings that may require bringing a bottle or two
B
elow are my currently preferred off-piste selections that will ensure affordable but entirely enjoyable sampling of some new wines over the winter months ahead.
Gruner Veltliner Austria is responsible for making some terrific wines at the moment. Whilst the reds further south in the Burgenland are well worth exploring, it was Gruner Veltliner which really put the country back on the wine map after the unfortunate antifreeze scandal of the 80s. Whether from the Kremstal, Kamptal or Wachau regions, there is no shortage of these impressively decent and characterful whites to enjoy, under €
15.Stylistically Gruner tends to occupy a space somewhere between Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling with some of the gooseberry and grapefruit character of the former with the more floral and stony notes of the latter and a distinctive note of freshly milled white pepper. Recommended producers include Domaine Wachau, Sepp Moser and Weingut Stadt Krems.
Picpoul de Pinet Known as the Muscadet of the south, this charming and supple wine shares some of its northern cousin’s leesy, wheaty character but with a ripeness of spicy, cinnamon-dusted melon fruit that reminds you that it hails from the warmer climes of the Languedoc. A great example of an affordable wine appreciated by those in the know, its ever-growing fanbase will attest to what a pleasure it is tasting an unpretentious, versatile white that is zippier yet fuller textured than Pinot Grigio but fruitier and softer than lesser Loire Sauvignon Blanc and similarly priced. A great and gluggable aperitif, it’s also well-paired to the local oysters and other freshly- caught shellfish. Recommended producers include Domaine Ls Croix Gratiot, Le Cave de L’Ormarine and Domaine Les Lauriers.
Barbera (d’Asti/ d’Alba or del Monferrato) Very much thought of as the second grape of the Langhe – with Nebbiolo and the grand wines of Barolo and Barbaresco hogging the limelight, Barbera is well worth getting to grips with. Its forest berry, brambly character is supported by a crisp vein of natural acidity whilst its tannins are quite gentle and fruity. Rarely expensive, Barbera is always good with charcuterie but also a meaty ragu and less wallet-busting wines of Piedmont. Spending your well-earned savings on extra truffle shavings definitely makes sense… recommended wines come from Villa Sparina, Castello di Neive and Araldica.
Monstant DO With vineyards almost completely surrounding Spain’s most voguish wine destination, Priorat, Monstant is capable of producing some exciting, richly hedonistic reds especially. Stony soils, often bordering the mountains after which the region is named, an arid climate and, where you can find it, old vine Garnacha (Grenache) and Carinena (Carignan) makes for an attractive combination that tends to punch well above its modest price. Dark-fruited with polished leather and dried herb notes, Monstant reds are good examples of affordable winter warmers, and great with roasted and slow braised meats. Recommended wines come from Bodegas Acoustic, Celler de Capcanes and Cinglesblaus.
Uruguayan Tannat What Malbec has done for Argentina, and Carmenere is doing for Chile, Tannat is hoping to achieve for Uruguay, i.e take a later-ripening, lesser known European grape and applying more sunshine and heat in order to get sufficiently juicy fruit to balance the rich tannins and slightly green character that cooler climates produce. When this is achieved the resultant wines are powerful and spicy with chocolate pod, coffee bean aromas alongside a morass of dark, plummy fruit. The leading light in this field is Bodega Garzon, whose wines are terrific value for the quality and scale of production. Other recommended wines to try this season come from Pisano and Bodegas Carrau.
ONBOARD | WINTER 2019 | 87
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100 |
Page 101 |
Page 102 |
Page 103 |
Page 104 |
Page 105 |
Page 106 |
Page 107 |
Page 108 |
Page 109 |
Page 110 |
Page 111 |
Page 112 |
Page 113 |
Page 114 |
Page 115 |
Page 116 |
Page 117 |
Page 118 |
Page 119 |
Page 120 |
Page 121 |
Page 122 |
Page 123 |
Page 124 |
Page 125 |
Page 126 |
Page 127 |
Page 128 |
Page 129 |
Page 130 |
Page 131 |
Page 132 |
Page 133 |
Page 134 |
Page 135 |
Page 136 |
Page 137 |
Page 138 |
Page 139 |
Page 140 |
Page 141 |
Page 142 |
Page 143 |
Page 144 |
Page 145 |
Page 146 |
Page 147 |
Page 148 |
Page 149 |
Page 150 |
Page 151 |
Page 152 |
Page 153 |
Page 154 |
Page 155 |
Page 156 |
Page 157 |
Page 158 |
Page 159 |
Page 160
