The Screen Print Column
Combining screen printing with specialty techniques on textiles
In this month’s Screen Print Column, Jason Chapman, director of operations at The Regency Group, New York, provides some tips and techniques to stretch the imagination.
S
ome of my proudest moments as a screen printer was winning Gold awards at FESPA, SGIA and other global events.
Achieving such accolades requires extra effort, creativity and sometimes brilliance. Here are some basic tips for the newbies.
Screen printing as the foundation • Mesh count: Use lower mesh counts (80–160) for specialty inks (like puff or metallic), and higher (200–305) for detail-heavy or thinner inks.
• Emulsion type: Use a dual-cure or photopolymer emulsion resistant to heat and solvents if combining with foil or heat- reactive effects.
• Registration: Critical when layering multiple effects (e.g., printed base + foil + puff). Use micro-registration clamps and test prints to align layers perfectly.
Foil printing
(foil + screen print) The process: 1) Screen print adhesive layer (water-based or plastisol foil adhesive).
2) Flash cure lightly – tacky, not fully dry. 3) Apply foil (metallic side up), cover with parchment or teflon. 4) Heat press: 300-325°F (150-160°C) for 8 to 12 seconds with medium pressure.
5) Cool and peel foil off in one smooth motion.
Technical notes: • Use polyester-backed foil. • Avoid over-curing adhesive. • Matte release foil for subtle effects; holographic for bold looks. • Cold wash garments inside-out to preserve foil longevity.
Puff ink (3d print effect) • Use plastisol-based puff inks that expand when cured (~320°F/160°C).
• Screen through mesh count of 80–110 for thicker ink deposits.
• Puff can be blended with other plastisols; test mix ratios. • Avoid over-flashing before final cure to preserve expansion.
Heat press embossing/ debossing on fabric • Requires custom steel, brass, or silicone die. • Die temperature: 275-350°F (135-175°C). • High pressure (40-60 psi) using industrial heat press.
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Ensure curing steps are ordered to avoid affecting prior layers.
Wash and durability tips • Foil: Cold wash, inside-out, line dry. • Puff ink: Long-lasting; may flatten over time. • Engraving: Permanent on synthetics. • Emboss/ deboss: Permanent on heavy fabrics. In next month’s article, I delve deeper into combining puff ink with embossing and provide tips on how you can this technically, creatively, and strategically.
June 2025 | 49 |
Tips: • Use backing foam for soft fabrics. • Emboss before printing to avoid ink distortion. • Works best on structured textiles (e.g., sweatshirts).
Laser engraving on textiles
• Use CO2 laser engraver (40–80W). • Best on synthetics like polyester; burns top layer. • DPI: 200-300. • Adjust power by material – test strips essential. To integrate this process, it is best to engrave after screen print for texture overlay, or before for contrast.
UV, gloss and specialty inks Ink types: • UV inks: Require UV LED curing. • Gloss inks: Use clear or high-gloss plastisol. • Reflective inks: Screen through 110 mesh.
Curing considerations
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