SUPPLIER INSIGHTS


CLOTHING DURABILITY TESTING OVERVIEW


In this month’s ASBCI column, ASBCI Technical Committee members SGS (UK) Ltd convey the importance of clothing durability. Tony Lai, Softline Technical Manager at SGS (UK) Ltd, tells Footwear


& Fashion Today readers about why durability and sustainability are important factors to consider.


change and staining levels after exposure to certain conditions are visually assessed under a standard light box, using a defined grading system, such as Grey Scale. Fabrics are further evaluated for resistance


to wear through abrasion testing, often using the Martindale method (ISO 12947), which repeatedly rubs fabric against a standard abrasive material to determine how quickly visible wear develops. It helps predict wear in high-friction areas such as knees, elbows, and seat panels.


Fit durability – dimensional stability Fit is one of the strongest drivers of customer satisfaction. A well-made garment will be discarded if it shrinks or loses its shape. Dimensional stability testing, typically


performed according to ISO 5077, and related laundering procedures, are applied to measure how garments maintain fit. Garments are washed and dried under controlled conditions. Then key measurements, including chest, body length, hip, and hem, are taken and compared with their original dimensions.


Functional durability – does it still work? Functional durability measures whether a garment continues to perform its intended purpose after repeated uses, i.e. wear and washes. Basic structural performance testing includes: Tear and tensile strength testing to determine


how much force a fabric can withstand before tearing and breaking, typically measured using tear strength test method (ISO 13937) and tensile strength test method (ISO 13934). These tests are particularly important for workwear, sportswear and outdoor clothing. Seam strength testing to assess whether


stitched seams can withstand normal wear and movement without tearing or opening, assessed through seam strength test method (ISO 13935). There are many attributes of a garment’s


T


oday, consumers are more conscious of sustainability, value for money and the environmental impact of fashion.


A durable garment not only lasts longer but also reduces waste and helps consumers get better value from every purchase. For most UK consumers, durability is no longer simply about preventing holes or tears, but whether garment continues to look attractive, fit properly, and perform its intended function for an extended period. To understand clothing durability, you can


consider three key dimensions: aesthetic durability, fit durability, and functional durability.


Aesthetic durability – appearance retention If a garment remains structurally intact but no


42 • FOOTWEAR & FASHION TODAY • JUNE 2026


longer looks appealing, consumers will likely stop wearing it. One of the most common concerns is pilling,


where small fibre balls form on the fabric surface after repeated wear and washing, making garments appear old. This is typically assessed by pilling resistance test standards such as ISO 12945-2, which simulates repeated wear and rubbing. Another important aspect of aesthetic


durability is colour retention. Colour fastness testing evaluates how well dyes withstand washing, rubbing, perspiration, and exposure to light. Good colour fastness helps garments retain their fresh appearance over time. The ISO 105 series of test methods include ISO 105-C06 for washing, ISO 105-X12 for rubbing and ISO 105-B02 for light exposure. The colour


durability that can be assessed by using different test methods. Once a garment passes all these assessments, particularly after multiple washes, consumers should be confident that a garment will continue performing as expected throughout its service life.


Looking ahead In addition to consumer expectation, product durability has become a mandatory requirement in some regulations, such as the EU Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR). As sustainability expectations continue to grow, durability testing is essential to ensure clothing maintains its appearance, fits well and performs as intended during its expected product life. Brands and retailers are actively reassessing


their testing programmes to determine the best way to quantify and improve the durability of products, and how they communicate this to consumers to assist their buying decisions.


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