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what you’re in the mood for, what you’ve heard, what you want to try – and they’ll put together a meal for you for that night, walk you through how to enjoy that so you really can savour each moment.’ What are the moments to be savoured? A
few appetisers arrive on the house – bread, parmesan cheese, salami, pickles – but the thing to have is the famous spicy rigatoni vodka, the Caesar salad prepared tableside, the baked clams, the veal parmigiana. A few cocktails here, a digestif at the end. Limon- cello usually arrives on the house. The offer here is the same as elsewhere,
though the UK’s fine produce – our seafood is the best in the world – means there will be a couple of London-only dishes, such as langoustines and scallops. The raw bar, whose offering is never written down but is recited by waiters, is likely to benefit most.
T
he new restaurant is large and opu- lent, with room for 220. Tables are far apart and the lights low, suggesting
privacy is a priority. It’s not a surprise Holly- wood loves Carbone – here is somewhere they can hide, among the art from playboy dealer Vito Schnabel and the chandeliers. The room does mid-century glamour as the movies might imagine. It’s the sort of space that costs millions to do but looks as if it was put in decades ago and has just had a good polish. The style encourages a long night, a big bill, a little dancing, a longing look. In a different time, nights here might finish with a fine Cuban and a brandy the size of a fist. ‘We’re here for you. You’re here as our guest. You’re welcome to stay. You want to
Two classic Carbone dishes are the spicy rigatoni vodka (above) and the linguini vongole (below)
NEXT TIME YOU’RE WALKING
IN AND YOU’RE IN GOODFELLAS, YOU’RE SAYING HI TO THE STAFF BECAUSE YOU REMEMBER THEM AND THEY REMEMBER YOU
keep eating? You want us to throw different moves at you? We can do it all night, right?’ says Zalaznick, shrugging his shoulders. ‘And all of a sudden, next time you’re
walking in and you’re in Goodfellas, you’re saying hi to the staff because you remember them and they remember you. You sit down and your drink’s there. And that’s… that’s…’ Carbone is reaching into the air, hand up, eyebrows low. ‘That’s the feeling that you can’t replicate,’
says Zalaznick. And that, it seems, is Carbone.
Carbone is at the Chancery Rosewood, 30 Grosvenor Square, London, W1K
Web
rosewoodhotels.com
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