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building whose high ceilings and wide hall- ways were not intended to feel hospitable. The results are a triumph of style at scale, with deſtly deployed carpets that reveal parts of the terrazzo flooring while reducing their echoing effects, painstakingly restored neo-classical woodwork, and a scheme of rich reds, deep blues and more subtle hues inspired by the old masters. The furniture is modern and unshowy and lets the serious modern art collection sing (there are pieces from Frank Stella, Maarten Baas and Sterling Ruby). Dutch landscape artist Piet Oudolf has designed the hotel’s courtyards, while London studio Sagrada has worked wonders with the serene Euwen restaurant, which spills out on to the calm inner courtyard. Seafood dominates a chang- ing menu, including an exceptional seabass in ostendaise sauce with mussels and a lip-smacking bisque-like vissoep (fish soup). The Court occupies the other side of the courtyard, with lighter bites, including cro- que madame and surely the best fries in the city, served with a choice of mayonnaises. At Advocatuur, the darker bar where Rose-
wood appears to have deployed any staff who have either tattoos or man buns, the cocktail list is overseen by Yann Bouvignies, formerly of Scarfes at Rosewood London.
THE FURNITURE IS MODERN
AND UNSHOWY AND LETS THE SERIOUS MODERN ART
COLLECTION SING
Persuasive revellers here might be able to swing a tour of the building’s old cells; one of the original doors creaks open to reveal a secret bar where temporary inmates are served Kopstuk, the Rosewood’s version of a Dutch speciality that involves downing a shot of house jenever, a glass of the hotel’s own beer and a quail’s egg rolled in salt. Don’t knock it until you’ve tried it. In all there are six room categories across
134 keys, including five ‘houses’, which can be entirely self-contained, with butler service and prices from €6,000 a night. Whatever your level, it pays to nab a canal view. Many rooms have bathtubs overlooking the water, from which one can enjoy the novelty of sip- ping champagne in one’s own body of water while watching the tourist boats float by.
The hotel’s corridors and Advocatuur bar offer a dark warmth, while baths with a view of the canal are a unique bonus
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