Company insight


Ecotan: From circularity to multi-circularity in the leather industry


Silvateam’s Ecotan enables the production of finished leather that, through recycling and reuse, goes on to have a second life.


cotan, a pioneering initiative by Silvateam, is transforming the leather tanning industry. Its goal is to create a finished leather that can easily be repurposed through multiple second-life paths. By combining traditional tanning methods with cutting-edge technology, Ecotan offers advanced environmentally friendly solutions. As Alessandra Taccon, BU Leather Sustainable Technologies director, explains: “What started as a circular system has evolved into a multi-circular approach, with eco-design principles at its core. This transformation was shaped by a scientific study conducted in collaboration with Gustavo Defeo from Ars Tinctoria, which also inspired our ‘Made to be Reborn’ communication campaign.”


E


Ecotan allows the production of leather that is inherently designed for recycling and reuse, aiming for a ‘zero waste’ model. The goal is to ensure that the leather at the end of its useful life, as well as scraps and trimmings generated along the supply chain, have a second life, minimising their environmental impact.


Biodegradable


Ecotan leathers are not only innovative but also environmentally responsible. Research by CTC has proven that Ecotan leathers are biodegradable and compostable, containing high percentages of renewable bio-based materials. The most remarkable feature of Ecotan is that once the leather reaches the end of its life cycle, it can be transformed into compost, which enriches the soil and boosts plant growth. This is possible thanks to micronutrients like nitrogen and organic carbon, naturally found in the leather, as well as tannins with antibacterial properties that protect plant roots. Defeo notes: “We tested the renewable component of Ecotan leathers through radiocarbon analysis, and the results were


Leather International / www.leathermag.com


enhance plant growth: healthy plants absorb more CO2 from the atmosphere and release oxygen, making them an important ally against climate change. Taccon underscores: “Our goal is not only to minimise waste in the environment, but also to scientifically validate our technology through measurable CO2 savings. Thanks to our partnership with CTC, we can accurately quantify Ecotan’s carbon footprint, ensuring that its adoption leads to significant environmental benefits. Some of our partner tanneries, like La Scarpa from Tuscany, have embraced this challenge and are recycling and composting Ecotan leather scraps.”


Overcoming challenges


Collaborations include partners across new industries such as design, footwear and automotive


outstanding: over 80% of the material is renewable, with some formulations reaching as high as 96%.” Furthermore, the leathers were tested for their ability to act as a biofertiliser. When hydrolysed, the collagen fibres in the leather are converted into hydroxyproline, an essential amino acid for plant growth, making Ecotan a sustainable alternative to synthetic fertilisers.


Reduces CO2 Ecotan’s commitment to sustainability extends beyond biodegradability. Significant research has been conducted on the CO2 savings that result from converting Ecotan leather into fertiliser or compost rather than incinerating it. Preliminary findings, when implementing end-of-life management and upcycling, show substantial reductions in CO2 emissions. Additionally, the biofertiliser and compost derived from Ecotan leathers


The development of Ecotan has not been without its challenges. Andrea Cassani, head of innovation BU leather at Silvateam, explains that one of the most significant obstacles in the leather industry is the lack of transparency regarding the chemical composition of materials used in production. For instance, zinc, a commonly used component, is phytotoxic in high amounts but is rarely listed in material specifications, complicating sustainability assessments.


A bright future Ecotan’s future is promising, with new collaborations across industries such as design, footwear and automotive. Among others, the partnership with Stellantis stands out. Through ongoing research and innovation, Ecotan is setting new benchmarks for sustainable leather production. Silvateam’s dedication to sustainability, coupled with Ecotan’s groundbreaking approach, proves that high-performance leather can coexist with environmental responsibility. ●


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