Analysis
With five million members worldwide, the WWF is dedicated to delivering science-based solutions to preserve the diversity and abundance of life on Earth
the first brands to make a financial commitment to the Deforestation-Free Leather Fund. That commitment is in addition to the Tapestry Foundation’s $3m philanthropic grant to the WWF in 2022 to develop an innovative system to enhance traceability of the leather value chain in Brazil and convene the industry. “Tapestry’s investment in the fund continues and expands the company’s commitment to addressing climate change through long-term sustainable solutions and immediate actions,” said Logan Duran, vice president of ESG and sustainability at Tapestry. “We believe strongly in the importance of sustainability in leather manufacturing, and this commitment reaffirms that belief. We invite other companies, both within and outside our industry, to join us in these efforts.” Duran, too, spoke at the online briefing discussing the new fund. At it he described leather as being the company’s “highest impact material” and that company, which sources 99% of its leather from gold and silver- rated tanneries, was committed to reducing that impact. He added that while it would be “an uphill task” implementing change, Tapestry was “really excited” to be involved with the Deforestation-Free Leather Fund.
The challenge
Bellese said at the online briefing that between 2001 and 2023 Brazil lost 68 million hectares of tree cover, and that cattle production was the number one driver of that loss, which was more than the second, third and fourth drivers of deforestation combined. He added that with increasing food demand, cattle herd numbers will continue to increase, leading to more deforestation. The challenge is to persuade farmers not to clear new forests and adopt more efficient practices, while convincing them that by doing they “can still be profitable”. “We don’t have to start from zero, there are good solutions,” Bellese added.
Emphasising his case in an online blog, Bellese writes: “Leather companies have an important role
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to play in the removal of embedded impacts and emissions from the supply chain. Their position within the supply chain gives them leverage to encourage and support more sustainable practices. By working collectively and with WWF, leather companies can influence beef operations to improve the traceability of cattle back to their point of origin, support more sustainable farming practices, and eliminate deforestation and conversion from supply chains. In addition, when managed appropriately, cattle can actually support the protection of critical ecosystems like grasslands, savannas and rangelands, and provide ecosystem services, livelihoods and food security for local communities.
“It is through collective action and financial support that leather companies can help to make and sustain positive changes in the leather supply chain. Doing so will send strong market signals to cattle ranchers, beef producers, and leather processors that deforestation needs to be addressed. The result can help drive changes that lessen the environmental impacts of beef and leather production.” He continues: “Given leather’s status as a luxury good and its association with quality products, consumer pressure for sustainable practices in that industry is higher than for many alternative products. Companies in the fashion, automotive and furniture industries use leather to make their products more valuable, and that demand gives those industries the ability to influence change in their partnerships with upstream suppliers.”
While the WWF admits that the fund on its own will not have the reach or resources to solve all challenges faced, the organisation says it has the potential to accelerate the adoption of important sustainability practices and build a more resilient system for the future.
“This fund is not going to solve all the problems, but it will help the sector move in the right direction,” concluded Bellese. ●
Leather International /
www.leathermag.com
T. Schneider/
Shutterstock.com
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