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its large lagoons and low-lying profile – the highest point is only 45 metres above sea level, though the surrounding corals of the Indian Ocean were dangerous enough to warrant a lighthouse. However you arrive, the island is car-free and there
are 63 beaches, with opportunities for snorkelling, bird watching, Segway tours, cycling or walking on 45km of trails (there are information boards at heritage sites and wayfinding information), exploring World War II tunnels beneath the gun on Oliver Hill, or even skydiving from heights of more than 4,000 metres.
NON-STOP FLIGHTS Te island, along with most of Western Australia, is hoping for a boost from the non-stop Qantas flights from London to Perth (reviewed in the May edition of Business Traveller and online at
businesstraveller.com). If your memories of visiting from Europe are bookended by the 30-hour journey via somewhere in the Middle East or Asia, followed by a further stop in Sydney or Melbourne, now it’s possible to reach Perth direct and non-stop in just 17 hours. Te time difference isn’t so bad either, as Perth is only seven hours ahead of GMT. Jet lag is roughly what you’d expect flying to Bangkok, which means you’re quickly on your feet and ready to explore beyond the city – Rottnest is an obvious first trip.
S E P TEMBE R 2 0 18
CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: There are 63 beaches on the island; marsupials called quokkas; the Vincent Way, one of several trails on the island; corporate events can be arranged, including canapés and drinks on the beach
Rottnest’s idyllic appearance belies its horrific recent
history. Behind the peaceful beauty (it reminded me of a drier version of Lindisfarne in Northumberland) is the disturbing fact that the island was used as a penal colony for Aborigines until the early 20th century. A total of some 2,700 men and boys were imprisoned, and 369 died. Given a history like that, you’d think they’d just give up and rebrand the island with a new name. Of course, it did have a name prior to European
settlement – Wadjemup, which means “place of spirits across the sea”. Walter McGuire, of Go Cultural, offers tours of Rottnest along with mainland Aboriginal visitor experiences. He explained the Aboriginal belief that when someone dies the spirit travels to the ocean and resides where the sun sets, with Wadjemup being the last stop on the way. Te west end of the island is referred to as Koorinup, the place where the spirits of Noongar people come to rest aſter death. Te native songs or dreamings recognise not only sites such as these but also locations now under the sea between the island and the mainland – fascinating oral history considering the island was separated from the rest of Australia around 7,000 years ago. Rottnest has undergone many changes in more recent
years. Te vegetation can survive arid conditions, with feather speargrass and prickle lily most evident, and, in areas where previously the island had trees, which were
busin e s s t r a ve lle r . c o m
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