IMAGES: BEN PIPE; AWL IMAGES


QUITO


“Ecuadorians are strange and unique beings: they sleep peacefully amidst rumbling volcanoes, they live poor amidst untold riches, and they delight in sad music.” Alexander von Humboldt, German explorer


From left: Indigenous textiles and jewellery, like those found at Mercado Artesanal La Mariscal; souvenirs on sale at Peguche Handicrafts, Old Town; geraniums spill from balconies in La Ronda street, Old Town


Previous pages: Jervis Café in the bohemian neighbourhood of La Floresta


EAT £ Parque José Navarro: Head to this market


in Avenidas Ladrón de Guevara for street food specialities such as tripa mishqui (pork tripe with potatoes), sweet pristiños pastries and a hearty lamb’s intestine soup known as yaguarlocro. It runs daily in the afternoons, except on the second Sunday of the month. £ £ Jervis Café: When Jervis opened in La


Floresta in 2013, it was one of the first cafes in Quito with outdoor seating. Owner Ruben Benavides makes a serious coffee brew, using full-bodied Arabica beans grown at altitude in the southern Andean province of Loja. jerviscafe.negocio.site £ £ £ Banh Mi: Among the gastronomic gems


in Quito’s restaurant scene is this pan-Asian option, which opened in 2016. Try fusion dishes like tuna ceviche with sushi nori and coconut milk or phad krapao, which combines wok-charred llama meat with Thai basil. banhmi.ec


AFTER HOURS Sinners Microcervecería: The quinoa, corn and lemon verbena-based beers at this microbrewery have scooped multiple international awards. The original venue, in the trendy La Pradera neighbourhood, serves up ‘dirty’ nachos and sticky wings in a mural- filled space. sinnersfloresta.com Casa Gangotena: A former Colonia-era mansion on Plaza San Francisco, this palazzo hotel was rebuilt with new columns, fountains and murals after a fire in 1914. Cocktails served in the dimly lit bar incorporate Ecuadorian cane liquor. casagangotena.com Jacchigua Living Museum: The Jacchigua National Folkloric Ballet perform traditional Andean dances every Wednesday in the former Belmonte bullring. You’ll also find a programme of ballet, concerts and operas, showcasing acts from Ecuador and beyond, at the Teatro Nacional Sucre, a short walk away. jacchigua.org teatrosucre.com


GETTING THERE & AROUND There are no direct flights to Quito from the UK. American Airlines, British Airways and Iberia offer routes from Heathrow via Miami, while KLM flies via Amsterdam. aa.com ba.com iberia.com klm.com Average journey time: 17h. Quito is small and walkable; buses and taxis are inexpensive, but traffic can be an issue in the morning and late afternoon.


WHEN TO GO Ecuador’s dry season runs from June to September, with rainfall peaking in April. Temperatures remain constant year- round, averaging 19C during the day and 9C at night. National holidays such as Holy Week (April/May) and Day of the Dead (1-2 November) can be great times to visit.


MORE INFORMATION ecuador.travel


ECUADOR 2023 43


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