IMAGES: ALEJANDRA ALLAUCA; FRANZ ALBA; ECUADOR TRAVEL
INSIDE GUIDE CUENCA
RENOVATIONS, NEW OPENINGS AND ROOFTOP LOUNGES ARE GIVING THIS SOUTHERN, STORIED CITY A CONTEMPORARY EDGE
To walk around Cuenca is to visit an open-air museum. Time seems to have stood still in this pretty, UNESCO World Heritage Site city, where cobblestone streets and brick buildings paint a picture of 16th-century life. At its centre, the light-blue domes of the New Cathedral of Cuenca dominate the city skyline, while Calderón Park, the central square, is still the main stage where daily life plays out. Despite being Ecuador’s third-largest city, Cuenca has managed to maintain a relaxed feel, which only adds to its old-world charm. Yet, look closely and you’ll see this is a city that knows how to reinvent itself. In the El Vado neighbourhood, Hotel Cruz del Vado
opened in 2019 in a mansion complete with marble walls — the former newsroom of El Mercurio, Cuenca’s oldest newspaper. It pays tribute to local heritage with handcrafted furniture and works by local artists, while its rooftop restaurant, Cúpulas Azules, cooks up Andean dishes like locro (thick Ecuadorian soup) and pickled pork loin. Similarly, in the city centre, ITZA Hotel Boutique Internacional moved into a 20th-century building that was formerly home to the International Hotel, a 1950s grand dame. In 2022, it was restored by artisans into a boutique property with neoclassical fl air, and its three on-site dining options include the elegant Zaza 360 rooftop lounge.
hotelcruzdelvado.com
itzaboutiquehotel.com Rooftops like these have become a trend in the city
— spaces to hang out while sipping fi ery canelazos (hot and spiced tipples). With fi fth-storey views over the centre, Cantina La Única restaurant and bar serves tacos and fl avoured margaritas. Make sure to book in advance at Negroni bar, located in the French-inspired Jerves Calero mansion, just around the corner. It’s a prime spot to get bird’s-eye views of the New Cathedral and its domes, which light up at night. Meanwhile, Rooftop Cuenca, another restaurant and bar, is a welcome pit stop on the ascent to
hilltop Mirador de Turi, the city’s most famous viewpoint.
sociedadgourmet.ec instagram.com/rooftopcuenca Still hungry? Head to the Sebastián neighbourhood,
where Cafe San Sebas serves classic US diner-style breakfasts of bottomless coff ee and pancakes stacked high on the plate, while closer to the centre, LaMaría Cocina Libre has an ever-changing lunch menu. Set inside the recently restored 19th-century Casa del Parque, the English-style Mansión Matilde tea house is almost worth visiting just to admire the building’s frescoed walls and ceilings. Dos Sucres, meanwhile, serves Ecuadorian specialities made with organic ingredients sourced from local producers, including corn gnocchi and briskets over sweet potato puree. It’s located on the other side of the Tomebamba River, with a great promenade for walking off the meal.
sansebascuenca.com facebook. com/lamariacuenca
facebook.com/mansionmatilde
dossucrescuenca.com Another lovely spot for a walk is the Cuenca Botanic
Garden, which opened in the La Isla neighbourhood in 2021. It’s home to over 8,000 plant species from eight Ecuadorian ecosystems. Scattered around it are 73 music- playing tubes, part of Corre por la Musica, an acoustic installation by Argentinian artist Leandro Erlich.
facebook.com/jardinbotanicodecuenca For a fuller immersion in nature without sacrifi cing
comfort, Nómada Glamping off ers tents and cabins a 20-minute drive from the city. There are barbecue spaces, campfi res and scenic views of the Andes, plus stargazing opportunities at night. From here, trails lead to mountainous Cajas National Park, dotted with lakes, moors and cloud forest. Draws include signposted trails, Andean condors and alpacas, plus camping for more intrepid travellers.
instagram.com/nomadaglamping593 MARÍA SILVIA AGUIRRE
LIKE A LOCAL Diego Mejia’s top comfort eats
Diego is the owner of Sinfonía, a roastery and coffee shop.
sinfoniacafe.com
TA’LICO CUISINE Located a 10-minute drive from the historic centre, Cuenca’s premier Chinese restaurant whips up classics including wonton (dumpling) soup, kung pao (stir-fry) chicken and spicy mapu tofu.
LA CHICHERÍA This restaurant serves food inspired by the Andes region, from llapingachos, (potato patties) to classic chicha (Ecuadorian beer) flavoured with seasonal ingredients.
facebook.com/ lachicheriacuenca
BISTRO YAKU This is where French cuisine meets local ingredients — think filet mignon and patisserie-styled desserts, but with a local twist. Come for the food, stay for the live music. facebook. com/bistroyaku
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