IMAGES: GETTY
“Each island has its own distinct species
of tortoise,” our guide Pancho Dousdebés explains, as we set off down a woodland trail in search of these Galápagos icons. “Some were wiped out soon after the islands were discovered in the 16th century. But here on Santa Cruz, they’re thriving, with around 5,000 individuals.” As we walk, Pancho identifies a flock of
small, dark birds as Darwin’s finches, one of 17 species named after the 19th-century naturalist whose visit here inspired the then groundbreaking theory of natural selection. We watch them forage for grass seeds until Pancho draws our attention to what look like a boulder — before it stands up and walks a few steps on huge, muscular legs. “See those lichens on the tortoise’s
carapace?” Pancho asks. “That’s a sign of age. He could easily be 110 years old.” We follow the tortoise as he joins a gathering of others in a muddy pool, settling together like a series of stepping stones. But as memorable as these land experiences
may be, it’s the marine encounters I have on the cruise that most fill me with joy. La Pinta provides its guests with standup paddleboards and kayaks, and it also offers guided safaris in rigid inflatable boats, but I take every
opportunity to immerse myself in the water. After Bartolomé, we sail on to Genovesa Island and drop anchor beneath the cliffs of a flooded caldera. Strolling along the beach, we watch sea lion pups learn to swim in the shallows. Seabirds nest alongside the path, while marine iguanas bask on the rocks. Slipping into the waters once more, I soon spot fish whose bright yellow lips and eye patches make them look as though they’ve applied makeup in the dark. There are green turtles, and, coasting below them, several hammerhead sharks — just one of many migratory marine species that will benefit from the Galápagos Marine Reserve’s recent expansion. Bobbing here in the water, I can’t help but feel elated for my bold fishy friends.
HOW TO DO IT Windows on the Wild can package the entire journey from Quito to the Galápagos, including an overnight in Guayaquil; three nights’ B&B at Finch Bay Galápagos Hotel, on Santa Cruz Island; and a four-night cruise (full board). From £6,925 per person.
windowsonthewild.com Metropolitan Touring claims to have set up its operation with the aim of being carbon neutral. Its offsetting project endeavours to protect 34,600 acres of rainforest.
metropolitan-touring.com
ECUADOR 2023 25
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52
