HERITAGE
The resulting stilted, wood-and-glass
complex is a modern take on a traditional Manabí home. Here at ICHE, a trio of chefs — Valentina, who I’ve met, plus Angel de Sousa and executive chef Philip Salas — teach Manabí cuisine to 20 students; those from Manabí receive grants, funded by fees paid by students from other parts of the country. In the morning, they study; in the afternoon, they work in ICHE’s restaurant and bar. It’s where I’m now sitting, ready to try some
creations. Compared with the Ecuadorian food served by Valentina at the demo station, the restaurant’s repertoire is more akin to the international culinary scene I’m familiar with: ‘carpaccio’, ‘quenelle’ and ‘confit’ are all terms that feature on the menu. What’s unfamiliar are the ingredients, which are unapologetically Manabí. Today, I’m served chicharrón, a dish of
deep-fried sea bass skins and strips of palm heart — “parts that normally go unused,” Angel tells me. It’s garnished with carrots soaked in plantain vinegar and chicory from the restaurant’s herb garden. The chicharrón shatters in my mouth, with the fruity tang of vinegar cutting through the fattiness. Our barman today is Fernando Dueñas,
who recently graduated from the ICHE school programme. “Even though the idea of the project is to rescue Manabita cuisine, we’re also adding in European techniques,” he says, mixing currincho (Manabí sugarcane liquor) with clarified coconut milk and passionfruit. “That way, we can keep reinventing the cuisine here in Ecuador.” Fernando’s ultimate goal is to formalise currincho distillation
— currently a process that mostly takes place in backyard barrels — then start exporting it around the world. “I believe it could become a signature product,” he says, popping a straw made from papaya wood into my drink. Then, Angel places a steaming bowl before
me. It’s colada morada, an Ecuadorian drink that’s purple, spiced and traditionally consumed on the Day of the Dead. It has numerous ingredients, chiefly pineapple peel, acidic mortiño blueberries, papaya-like babaco fruit and cinnamon. “Two pages of ingredients go into this,” says Adriana, laughing. Meanwhile, Valentina has finished baking
the pan de yuca she’s been working on. She tops it with butter, which has the texture of clotted cream and melts into oil as it makes contact with the hot bread, then thrusts out a hand. “Here. Try it. Try it!” The bread has a fibrous texture and faint vegetable scent; the butter, sour and sharp, runs down my fingers. Valentina looks down at a bowl of leftover
yellow corn, still hot and crackling. “You have a piece of our ancestors in this dish,” she says. She gestures around at the restaurant, its herb garden and manabita ovens. “If this place disappears…” Valentina’s voice trails off and she falls silent for a moment. But the pause is short-lived and once again she’s on the move. She grabs the bowl of plantain balls and waves it in front of my nose. “Uno mas?”
HOW TO DO IT A seven-course tasting menu at ICHE costs £42, including wine, and must be booked at least one day in advance. For Manabí cookery demonstrations and lab tours, contact the team.
icherestaurante.com
THREE TO TRY RESTAURANTS IN MANTA The largest coastal hub in Manabí, this port city is a go-to for traditional specialities
Muya Chef Cecelia Cedeño’s restaurant is a homage to her Manabí roots. Food is served in maté-wood bowls, while the counter showcases cooking contraptions passed down from her grandparents. facebook. com/muyacocinagourmet
Iche Cocina Manabita As well as ceviche, you’ll find corviche (deep-fried balls of mashed green plantain, fish and peanuts) and viche (a peanut-heavy seafood soup). The Comadritas de Papel platter, meanwhile, is a culinary tour of Manabí meats and cheeses.
iche.com.ec
Casa Rosada This dining complex has a traditional ground-floor cafe, while the restaurant on the first and second floors is a more formal affair. On the rooftop, a terrace bar has scenic views over the Pacific.
facebook.com/restaurante casarosadaecuador
If you’re spending the night in Manta, bed down at the five-star Oro Verde Manta.
oroverdemanta.com
Clockwise from top left: Fruit being cooked to create a colada morada drink; the bartender at ICHE restaurant; plantain dumpling filled with pork menestra and topped with herbs; ICHE restaurant
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