IMAGE: BEN PIPE
C I TY LI F E QUITO Old-world charm meets cutting-edge cuisine and bohemian flair in
Ecuador’s lively capital, rewarding travellers who venture beyond the grand plazas and imposing churches of its UNESCO-awarded core
WORDS: SAR AH GI L L E S P I E
Ecuador’s Andean capital sits over 9,000ft above sea level, but it’s not just the altitude that takes your breath away. The city appears to be poured into a dramatic valley, encircled by snow-cloaked volcanoes of which Quiteños speak as one would of neighbours or old friends: Cotopaxi, Cayambe, Pichincha, to name a few. Less ancient, yet old by any human measure, is the
16th-century architecture. Catholic and Jesuit churches pepper the magnificent Old Town of Quito, which was among the first cites to be declared an UNESCO World Heritage Site and is the oldest of all the South American capitals, founded by conquistador Francisco Pizarro in 1534. Adding to the historic ambience are pastel-hued, Spanish-era townhouses; fuchsia geraniums trail from their balconies, giving Quito its nickname, the Pink City. Outside the historic core, architectural styles get looser
and the neighbourhoods cooler. In Mariscal Sucre, local Quiteños and gringos (foreigners) cut loose at packed clubs; in La Carolina, joggers throng its eponymous park. The place to be, though, is La Floresta: a graffiti-scrawled artists’ refuge, where every surface is a canvas. Founded in 1917, this bohemian ‘hood is home to open-air bars and cafes, as well as high-end Ecuadorian and international restaurants. This marks a change: just a decade ago, cheap almuerzo lunch deals — fruit juice, soup and meat with rice and beans — were the only option around. While in Quito, be sure to try Ecuadorian coffee and
chocolate: despite their quality, these products often don’t make it overseas without being blended with lesser goods, so fill up while you can. And why not? After all, it’s said you require more calories at altitude.
SEE & DO Basílica del Voto Nacional: Begun in 1892, this neo- gothic cathedral proved so lavish and costly it became a trigger point in Ecuador’s 1895 Liberal Revolution. It’s a wonder to look at, with condor, iguana and tortoise gargoyles, and stained-glass windows displaying some of Ecuador’s 1,710 endemic orchid species. Tackle the climb up the towers for one of the best views in town. Iglesia de la Compañía: It took the Jesuits 160 years to finish this Historic Centre church in 1765 — possibly because they were busy coating every surface in gold leaf. The result is a dazzling fusion of baroque and rococo styles. Look out for the impressive trompe-l’œil staircase and columns. Street art: Most of Quito’s murals are in La Floresta, where artists grapple with themes of identity and politics. However, one of the most memorable is on Avenida 24 de Mayo, between the Old Town and San Sebastián neighbourhoods. Here, in 2022, the government commissioned Spanish enfant terrible Okuda San Miguel to paint a mural marking 200 years of Ecuadorian independence. This he did — adding a giant Japanese Pikachu character in the centre. Museo Nacional: One of the country’s largest collections of Ecuadorian art includes more than 1,000 ceramic pieces dating as far back as 11,000 BC, as well as a mesmerising collection of pre-Columbian masks in the Sala de Oro (Gold Room). A wander through the Colonial Art gallery is essential to understand the complex power dynamics of that period; harrowing contemporary works by Oswaldo Guayasamín offer a modern perspective.
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